Keith,
I have a couple #1s and a 13.... That is a #3 made into a #1. I do not have a #1 in 06, just a Win 70 pre war and a 700. Shoot your gun and see how it shoots. If it does not shoot like you want, try free floating the barrel. I like to free float the barrel on my #1s but others like the little pressure block. Before cutting and glass bedding try an O ring from the hardware store, around the forend screw, between the metal hangar and forend wood. That should free float the wood off the barrel. Free floating a #1 forend is backwards, you move the wood off of the barrel so everything is done below the hangar.

There is a load that shoots in my 06 guns, IMR 4350 at 60 gr and a 150 Rem FBSP or Sierra PH. The load comes right out of the Lyman 43 edition as the 150 accuracy load.

Welcome, drag up a stump, grab a cold brew and kick back.
Ed

I must apologise for not welcoming you as well hereskeith....no excuse for such uncouth tardiness.

Welcome to the worst kept secret on the net mate...HuntingNut. As Bushy says...grab a beer, pull up a stump and sit awhile. Feel free to throw in your 10c worth at any time, and if you have a question just ask away....better to ask a silly question than make a stupid mistake.

Sorry I can't offer you any info on your Ruger mate...never really been my choice of rifle. There will be someone here that has the knowledge though.

Cheers, Vince

hi Hereskeith-I have'tn been on this site all that long-but I do have some experience with ruger #1s.It started when I got a 25-06 hbar varminter.Should have shot like a target rifle-more like a shotgun,handloads helped some but free foating the barrel,and learning to keep either the rest or your hand under the forarm just ahead of the action is the trick.I wasted lots of ammo trying to convince rockchucks to die before I learned that the bipod I was using just would'nt work with that rifle.I went to a range and an old timer was watching me shoot and cus the gun-finally he came over to my position and asked what seemed to be the problem,I told him that I could'nt get the gun to group consistantly and he said he'd been watching me changing the resting position on the forearm.I asked wht difference would that make-He just smiled and said that most people nowadays don't know to shoot a "sharps",of course I knew this was'nt a sharps-but he went on to say tha the ruger basically is an upgrade of a sharps and I still needed to support and shoot it the same way.I tried it-it works fantastic.Recorded 100 yd 5 shot groups 3/4" with factory ruger barrel.Sometimes it's good to pay attention to the older guys!
Now I'm getting in that age bracket I try to make fewer mistakes .:wtf:

TRBLSHTR wrote:

:) I asked wht difference would that make-He just smiled and said that most people nowadays don't know to shoot a "sharps",of course I knew this was'nt a sharps-but he went on to say tha the ruger basically is an upgrade of a sharps and I still needed to support and shoot it the same way.I tried it-it works fantastic.Recorded 100 yd 5 shot groups 3/4" with factory ruger barrel.Sometimes it's good to pay attention to the older guys! Now I'm getting in that age bracket I try to make fewer mistakes .:wtf:

Awesome mate.

Now, I'm just a dumb as "dog droppings" old aussie, and I've never even seen a Sharps, let alone shoot one, just know them by reputation. I'm intrigued....how do you "shoot a Sharps" ? What do you do differently to that of another rifle?

Just thought I'd ask as I'm sure there are no doubt others here who don't know either.

Cheers, Vince

Hi Vince -In answer to your question;the sharps seems to be a finicky type of rifle when it comes to support under the forearm because the forearm is not really separated from the barrel.It is still attached by a screw.Old time "sharpshooters" used to learn to always support the forearm at one designated spot on the forearm(usually just in front of the action)with the palm of the hand,or a resting stick,crossed(fouled)sticks ,or whatever they had for a good solid rest.Point is always to supprt in the same spot because it affects the Harmonics/occillations of the gun barrel when fired.Ruger seems to use this positive 10 pound upward pressure at the muzzle end of the forearm as a easy way out to keep 1st shot accuracy....However this changes on all succeeding shots as the barrel metal heats up usually causing it to "string" the shots higher on the target.Once the barrel cools to the original temperature it is supposed to return to zero.And guess what-it is also affected by ambient temperature.To me rugers methods have something to be desired.They probably market this way because of costs and their belief that most shooters will only shoot one shot every ten minutes.

OK, thanks TRBLSHTR, now I understand.

TRBLSHTR wrote:

They probably market this way because of costs and their belief that most shooters will only shoot one shot every ten minutes.

Well realistically, unless you are target shooting then they aren't too far wrong. How often do you shoot more than 1 or 2 shots when hunting...not all that often, unless you have BULK game in front of you or you are a TERRIBLE shot.

Cheers, Vince

Well Vince-I guess you could be right-but not for my shooting.Out here in Oregon we have certain kinds of game(varmint) problems at times-call them infestations.Sometimes it's jackrabbits in alphalfa,or ground squirrels in spring wheat,or even rockchucks(groundhogs,marmots and the like),and when you get into a mess of them the land owner usually prefers to have the whole lot thinned out-so at times the shooting can get pretty fast on follow up shots.Now for big game it's a different story and usually only 1 shot.

I agree with the 1 or 2 shot theory. If I'm out varmit shooting, I am using a bull barrel rifle. I have a Ruger KM77VT in .223 that I like using for groundhogs. When that heats up, I pull out my remington model 700 in .223. I like both the rifles, but I am especially partial to my Rugers