I just bought a rem 700 sps in .300 Ultra Mag and Im not too sure I like the trigger, are there any aftermarket triggers for this gun or can it have a trigger job done to it? If there is a way that the trigger can be adjusted could someone tell me how todo it.

Steve

Welcome to the site

Yes, you can have the trigger worked, and no, i don't suggest you doing it yourself if you don't have prior knowledge in triggers. Depending how bad it really is (because i've worked on some horrible factory Rem triggers) and in the worse case, you should not pay over $80 for stone and adjustments.

There are some aftermarket triggers available which I hear are excellent,but personally I just adjust my model 700 and 7 triggers myself.This is a touchy subject because of Liability concerns and I am not sure what the policy of this site is. I will say that there are three trigger adjustment screws on the 700 trigger housing,two in front and one behind,covered with a factory sealant. I found out how to adjust my triggers through trial and error and carefully counting turns of screws.My reccomendation is LEAVE THE ONE IN THE REAR ALONE as I am pretty sure that its sear engagement.The safest advise is to take it to a gunsmith,they are adjustable. If you do try it yourself all risk is yours and seal the screws back up with glue or fingernail polish after adjustment.Sorry I cant be more specific,hope this helps.

Thanks for the help guys, and thanks for welcoming me to the site

Steve

I agree with the previous posts. Adjusting triggers is like working on the brakes on your car. If you have the tools and expertise, it is not a big deal. Otherwise, leave it to a competent gunsmith. All the best...
Gil

man i love seeing all the people who still have enfields.

i still think enfields are the guns to use tho on north american game.

FYI. All the best...
Gil

Remington Trigger Adjustments

14 May 2000
By Paul "Pablito" Coburn
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First, the disclaimer
In the U.S.A., we live in a litigious society, and for those of you who live in Rio Linda, that means fools will do really stupid crap, and then sue someone else, because "It's their fault, they made me do it!". For those of you that don't know what you're doing... STAY AWAY FROM TRIGGERS... you can hurt someone (usually someone else!)

Adjusting triggers is something that was once an expected job by the owner of a new gun, just like adjusting the seats in your new car.

But Remington (because of many lawsuits) takes a very dim view of adjusting their triggers... it's number "1" under Remington's "Felony list of no-no's".

Be advised, if you adjust the trigger, and send the gun back to Remington (in the USA) for repairs, they will charge you for a new trigger (they will NOT re-adjust the old one).

.. and finely, your mileage may vary according to road conditions. If you are new at guns, and lack experience to do internal minor repairs and parts replacement... this may not be for you. Do not do the following unless you are skilled enough to work on guns, and responsible enough to handle them safely. I'm presenting this information as "Information Only"... it is SOLELY your decision whether you have the skill and ability to use this information.

If you have an accident, it means that you weren't skilled enough, or responsible enough, so you shouldn't have done the following, so it's not my fault, neither Sniper Country's!


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Now on to the details
The Remington triggers are very good, except they come with a built in lawyer, and he weighs about 9 or 10 pounds.

You will need a bit of good quality gun oil (CLP or equivalent), and a set of small screwdrivers, and some white or red nail polish.

Remove the barreled action from the stock.

Looking at the gun and trigger so the safety is up, and the barrel is pointing to your right... the front of the trigger is to your right...


The three screws are as follows...

On your right, (the front of the trigger) the top screw, near the action, is over travel...
The bottom screw is spring tension...
On your left side, (the back of the trigger) is the engagement screw.

First, break the white "Seals of God" and screw the three screws out enough so that you see several threads.

They may be hard at first, but they are NOT staked in place. The screws and trigger body are carbon steel, and may be rusted, or they may have a sealant on them. Just break them free. Drop a teeny bit of oil on the threads. Run the screws in and out several times until the oil is in the threads, and they turn freely.

OK, now down to business.

Back out the spring tension screw out until there is just enough pressure to keep the trigger forward, but it's very light (4 or 5 oz's) and easy to move.

Back out the engagement screw, (the single screw on the left) and the over-travel screw (the upper screw on your right) out, so there's play to adjust.

Close the bolt on a cocked pin (don't pull the trigger) and VERY SLOWLY turn the engagement screw (on your left) in until the firing pin drops. Back it out about 1/3 to 1/2 of a turn. With the firing pin down, you should now feel the trigger wobble back and forth if you pull it because there is excessive over travel.

Because the back surface of the trigger is NOT undercut, you have to adjust over-travel with the pin "down".

Now, with the firing pin in the "fired" position, screw in the over-travel screw until it "just touches" the trigger lightly, preventing the trigger from moving... back out the over travel screw 1/4 turn. Pulling the trigger now, (with the pin "down") you should feel just the "slightest" free movement.

Now turn in the spring tension screw (lower right) to a pull that you like... I'd strongly suggest a good trigger pull gauge, instead of guessing.

Cock the pin and try it... it should break like glass.

Check by:
Slam the bolt closed a dozen times, check to see if the pin dropped each time. If the pin drops, back out the engagement screw 1/4 turn, and do again.
Cock the pin, set the safety, pull the trigger, release the trigger, and release the safety, a dozen times... if the pin drops, increase the spring tension (shouldn't be necessary, unless you're down around 10-15 oz's, and this trigger is not reliable at that light a pull.
Put white or red nail polish on the screws. Let dry, and put another coat on it again, and again.

There will be no "take up slack", this is a single stage trigger, and can't be adjusted to act like a two stage.

These triggers are easily capable of going to 24-26 oz's, and they keep the setting year after year, and I've never had to re-adjust one.

yip this here is what Ive seen over and again when looking into it..... still unsure if I can up the poundage without touching anything else???

You have Timney and Rifle Basix trigger which are very good.

Shilen make an excellent trigger but not for hunting.