Anybody reloading Sabots for there shotguns ? . I have bin thinking about getting into it . This place slugsrus.com/store/handload.html seems to have everything to get started except powder . Anybody have experience with roll crimpers like there's .. I'm curious as to how consistent they are.. The price for factory sabots is ridiculous... After gathering some info I may take the plunge and give it a whirl

Vince loads them up.
good info in the lyman manual on slug loads.

wow had a look at that link and that looks great. on another forum there has been a long winded thread about a gaep tool to do the whole improove crimp thing a real can of worms with heated opinions for and what for!!! that roll crimping tool looks piece of cake to use.we can buy cast slugs over here for next to nothing. drop them in a standard shotcup and crimp over top and your away laughing.
hubel has heaps of info he maybe a good go to guy???
rifled barrel or smoothbore??? it makes a difference as to what you need to go for in slug...and finally what factory load has worked best for you in the past as that is probably a good starting point.

Gidday Joe...as Elvis mentioned, I load slugs mate. Well, I not only load them, I cast them as well (LEE 1 oz Key slug) using either pure lead, Lyman #2 alloy or linotype depending on how I want them to perform. As asked by Elvis...do you intend using the slugs in a rifled or smoothbore mate? If using a rifled barrel, the suggestion from Elvis to touch base with our mate Hubel is a very good idea as he has done the hard yards researching and perfecting the process of sabots and slugs for rifled barrels.

I only use my slugs in a smoothbore, using a standard wad, trimming the petals down to leave about 2mm which basically holds the slug in place for the initial shock of firing. I also roll crimp using, surprise surprise, a roll crimper I purchased from SlugsRUs.

The roll crimper is made of a plastic type material, is well manufactured, and is very easy to use mate. The roll crimper uses friction to heat, soften and roll the edge over. I found the speed (RPM) and pressure to be critical, but it is very easy to get on top of with a little practice. Because it is spinning, it gives a very consistent and even crimp...with practice. I practiced on a few "cactus" hulls (after removing the fold crimp with a knife) until I had the speed and pressure down pat. I also spray a little Silicone Spray into the crimper every 5 or so crimps to make it easier. You can use the crimper with any sort of drill, although I found a battery powered drill with a speed sensitive trigger to give the best control. I also use my drill press with the speed set slow. The roll crimps it forms are very neat and do the job perfectly.

I have used the roll crimper with shot as well as slugs. I cut a plastic "over shot" disc from a plastic milk carton using a homemade tool, although a wad cutter of the appropriate size is available...works well.

I've also been thinking about loading shotgun shot and slug loads. In reading the Lyman manual, I found that Lyman makes a slug meant to be held in place with a standard fold crimp rather than a roll crimp.

Good info Vince . I want to do sabots for rifled barrels.. Did you get the shell station from slugsrus also ? when watching their vid I didn't no if it was a must have tool with that stabilizer or not.. I don't shoot a lot of slugs but more and more areas around me are slug/muzzle loader only ( No rifles ) and the price for sabots are ridiculous I could also load for a couple buddy's...

Grumulkin wrote:

I've also been thinking about loading shotgun shot and slug loads. In reading the Lyman manual, I found that Lyman makes a slug meant to be held in place with a standard fold crimp rather than a roll crimp.

Grumps...I've used a roll crimp, 6 petal fold crimp and an 8 petal fold crimp for slugs and I can't identify any difference to performance. Only thing I did find with the LEE Drive Key slug is with some hulls the cast slug was a tad too long for a good fold crimp. In those hulls I simply used a roll crimp.

shrpshtrjoe wrote:

Good info Vince . I want to do sabots for rifled barrels.. Did you get the shell station from slugsrus also ? when watching their vid I didn't no if it was a must have tool with that stabilizer or not.. I don't shoot a lot of slugs but more and more areas around me are slug/muzzle loader only ( No rifles ) and the price for sabots are ridiculous I could also load for a couple buddy's...

I didn't worry about the shell station mate...just purchased the roll crimper because freight costs can be poison from the USA, depending from where the item is sent.

I would have a search for sabots out here for you mate, but any I find would have come from the USA anyway and would be even more expensive. I really would touch base with Hubel...as I said, he has done the hard yards and may have the ideal product sitting there awaiting you call mate.

Thanks bud.. I have found various sabot slugs at slugsrus , midway has light-field sabots that look pretty good and are reasonable in price . Even new primed shells are reasonable.. I want to roll crimp and my real concern was how consistent the roll crimper is. With never doing it I would assume that when the roll crimp hits the slug or if using a over shot card you can feel the resistance and no to stop ? is that accurate Vince ?

I've often thought about reloading slugs also !!!
Every time I go to buy new they're either discontinued or the lot to lot variation affects consistency.

What about loading muzzle loader or pistol bullets with the sabots ???

Just curious has anyone else found slug guns to be finicky ???

I agree chammbered... Price and inconsistency seems there always discontinueing bullets. Right now I'm shooting the fusions witch I'm getting for $8.00 a box of 5 witch is cheap . I should be able to load my own for $ 1.00 a shot or less and tailor them to my gun..

Have you got the lyman shotgun manual???
they use a normal shot wad as a sabot to get groups for 100yards with the key slugs. funny that you are allowed to use a rifled bore but not a "rifle" me thinks someone hasnt read the definition of a rifle...we have the same thing over here in pine forestry blocks...theory is slug wont go as far as a rifle bullet!!!!
reading the manual if you use a star crimp you just have to get column height right which would be easy enough to do with card/felt wads if needed.

Joe wrote:

...With never doing it I would assume that when the roll crimp hits the slug or if using a over shot card you can feel the resistance and no to stop ? is that accurate Vince ?

Pretty much mate, but I generally roll a bit and have a look, then roll a bit more if needed.

Expect to trash a couple of hulls until you get it down to a fine art mate, which is why I use buggered hulls to practice on to start off, rather than trash good hulls. When I say trash a hull, I mean you can actually melt the plastic of the hull if you get a bit heavy handed.

Vince wrote:

Joe wrote: ...With never doing it I would assume that when the roll crimp hits the slug or if using a over shot card you can feel the resistance and no to stop ? is that accurate Vince ? Pretty much mate, but I generally roll a bit and have a look, then roll a bit more if needed. Expect to trash a couple of hulls until you get it down to a fine art mate, which is why I use buggered hulls to practice on to start off, rather than trash good hulls. When I say trash a hull, I mean you can actually melt the plastic of the hull if you get a bit heavy handed.

Good stuff Vince ...

I just placed a order from SlugRus I ordered there roll crimping tool, 100 primed hulls and 20 of there sabot slugs to try . I may try some of the light field slugs from midway as well . They show IMR 4756 / Herco and Blue dot as recommended powders for there sabots . Ill have to see whats available locally. I'm looking forward to see how well these shoot