I'll have to see what I can come up with. The nose punch should have a bleed hole and I would think the base punch will need one too or air might get trapped in it. The three piece unit sounds like the simplest way to make it. I just have to think it through.
Thanks Gelandangan!

Frankly I would not worry about air being trapped, it would be compressed nicely to aid removal of the projectile from the recess.

gelandangan wrote:

Frankly I would not worry about air being trapped, it would be compressed nicely to aid removal of the projectile from the recess.

As I understood this bleed off hole is not for air but for the excess of lead?
But why the need for a hollow point? I know the benefits of making my .22 LR round a flat nose (better group + increased transfer of energy to game), so I don't see the need for a HP anymore, not at a velocity around the speed of sound. In my head a lead bullet has a flat point of about 1/2 to 2/3 of its caliber, then diameter increases till diameter of the lands of the barrel and a base that exceeds a little the diameter of the fields (and a flat base with or without GC).
And when you want your bullet to be accurate, pay a lot of attention to its base!

Bleed hole must be placed where it is easy for the formed projectile to be removed from the swage.
Best is if it is placed on the middle of the cylinder where the sprue will be automatically cut and smooth over as the projectile is ejected.
If the bleed hole is placed on the rams, then there will be a force added to hold the projectile to the ram cavity, thus making it difficult to eject and make higher the chance of the tip or base to be deformed.
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Aloysius wrote:

gelandangan wrote: Frankly I would not worry about air being trapped, it would be compressed nicely to aid removal of the projectile from the recess. As I understood this bleed off hole is not for air but for the excess of lead? But why the need for a hollow point? I know the benefits of making my .22 LR round a flat nose (better group + increased transfer of energy to game), so I don't see the need for a HP anymore, not at a velocity around the speed of sound. In my head a lead bullet has a flat point of about 1/2 to 2/3 of its caliber, then diameter increases till diameter of the lands of the barrel and a base that exceeds a little the diameter of the fields (and a flat base with or without GC). And when you want your bullet to be accurate, pay a lot of attention to its base!

Aloysius,
No hollow point in my design. I tried to make a bullet with the center of gravity as far forward as possible while maintaining a decent BC. The one I came up with is a truncated cone point with a cylindrical body and the stepped base. The center of gravity is about 2/3 from the base to the point. This is designed to aid stability in the transonic area of its flight. The BC is quite high for a 22 caliber at 40 grains. The nose bleed hole is for excess lead but I also believe I need one at the base to prevent pushing air into the body area and deforming the bullet. There is no place for gas checks on these little bullets but the base to the body is cylindrical but a reduced size to slide into the case. The bullet and case on rim-fire ammo is the same. The 1/8 inch that goes into the case is .194" while the body is .226" in diameter. Here is a drawing:

Um..


On the up stroke the cylinder and the eject ram assembly is moving towards the nose ram, in this position the eject pin stop ring would ensure that the base size is correct by preventing the downward movement of the eject ram.

On the down stroke, the eject pin is to be stop by something in the primer tool location, while the cylinder is keep moving downwards and thus ejecting the swaged projectile. At the same time the excess lead sprue on the bleed hole will be trimmed and the end would be smoothed simultaneously.

The top ram stop ring is actually not important, it is needed only if you are swaging with a hammer <- real possibility.
Simply place the eject ram in the pritchell or hardy hole on an anvil, fill cavity with lead, put in the nose ram and tap away with the hammer.

Thanks Gelandangan!
That looks simple enough to make work.
I will be using a Shelden #2 Arbor press but I can make it work.

I may have to put a step between the body and the nose to give it the strength necessary but I will try it without the step first.