Shooter's Choice makes a liquid lead remover that works. There are also kits that mechanically remove the lead by pulling a tight fitting metal "patch" throught the bore. Combine the two for quick results.

chambered221 - Thanks for the tip. Never know when I might be caught without Kroil and it always pays to have an alternative!

Should note that when using a penetrating oil, keep it away from things you don’t want to loosen !!!

Mike, I have used Shooters Choice with the lead remover. IMO it doesn’t work as well as a true penetrating oil.

I was directed by some shooters to use Butches Bore Shine several years ago when I started using LSWC in my .45ACP pistols.
Butches really gets the lead and copper out of my barrels, and it is the only solvent that I use now on all of my Pistols, Rifles, and Shotguns.
It may be worth a try.

Eric

Butches is great on copper...never thought to try it on lead. I'll have to try that too. Never too old to learn!

I think I must have been hiding under a rock or something.
I have never seen (well not that I recognized) copper fouling. It makes sense that with copper fouling leading would be more of a problem. I think I need to look more carefully at my bores.

I've dissassembled guns for repair that only needed removing the varnish that is formed when wd-40 dries. To do this I used kroil. keep wd-40 away from moving parts it will gum them up. I use kroil for alot of stuff and it makes a great bore cleaner but for a finish coat I still like #9

It's a little too thin to use as a protectant against rust though.

As was said, throat size, bullet hardness, phase of the moon, all come into play here. Problem is, the throad/barrel diameter sizes may be "all wrong", per the experts. This is all supposed to be fun, right?

Most of us are satisfied to simply shoot what we have, and adjust within the possible range, which usually means a larger/smaller sizing die, different bullet alloy, or lube. If you buy your bullets, you are at the mercy of whoever made them.

Sometimes just upping the charge will cause the bullet to upset more, and expand in the bore, for less leading.

My "358" size die actually measured .3575, exactly the same as my cylinder throats. Bore diameter? Who knows? I own a Smith and Wesson, with their 5 groove barrel. I opened the die up to a true .358. Lee said the hardening is much deeper than the little amount I removed. Time will tell if it improves things.

Usually, a combination that doesn't lead is fairly simple to find, but not guaranteed. But before driving yourself nuts, just remember: A little bit of a COPPER Chore Boy kitchen pan scouring pad wrapped around a bore brush will remove leading rapidly, WITHOUT damaging the bore.

I just made up about 80 lbs of "close to Lyman #2" bullet alloy from wheelweights and 50-50 bar solder. Time will tell, but I had no leading when I shot it before.

Different lube may help. I have some commercially cast bullets that are at least 15 years old, and leaded badly from the beginning.

I thought lube couldn't have been helped by sitting around in a cardboard box all that time, and I didn't want to throw them away. (I'm cheap) I relubed, using the bottled goop Lee sells iand a pan. Once again, time will tell, even if the bullets are slightly undersized for my throat/forcing cone. But, as plinkers, they will do just fine.

Of course, I don't push my cast revolver bullets much more than 1,000-1,100 fps. anyhow.

Ok, I have always told my kids: "never give up", but damn, I'm running out of ideas.
My problem is I am always trying make what I have work.
I bought 2 boxes (1000) of hard lead 158gn swc. they are labeled .358 dia. I need to find a way to make them work. I have run the gamet with charges and 3 different powders from 1000f/s up to 1700f/s everything has leaded. the high speed loads mostly across the full length of the barrel. The loads less than say 1300f/s just the 1st 3-4 inches of the barrel. I just tried some after running them thru a lee bullet sizer (357) and crimped gc on. Same result. I didn't put any of the lee lube stuff on. I think that is next. After that, I'm selling the damn bullets cheap!!!
You guys have had some good ideas. Do you think the lee lube will help?

squirrelbait wrote:

My problem is I am always trying make what I have work. After that, I'm selling the damn bullets cheap!!!

Good plan. Most bullets can be made to work ... but, with cast bullets, nothing is for sure.

A suggestion, if I may. Try a few relubed with Lee "frog snot",(just a little will do) and a few of the original bullets.
If your sizer is .357, see if a .358 sizer will help. But your bullets may measure about .3575, like so many commercial cast and jacketed bullets. Lube 'em again after sizing.

Lead bullets are supposed to be sized about .001 over bore diameter...around .358. Some people say that .359 works, too.

Try 5-5.5gr. Unique, or other powder, for ~800-850 fps/4", and see how that does. I used that load/158gr. swc for years in IPSC, and had very few leading problems.

Or, load a couple of unpowdered, unbulleted cases with magnum primers, take 'em with you, and if the loads lead, pop a couple or three. That is said to remove leading in fine fashion. I haven't tried it yet. If it doesn't, Chore Boy (pure copper only) the bore. Should do it for you. Good luck.

It is a fine and pleasant madness!