Just curious what you folks use for stock finishes. Over many years I have settled on boiled linseed oil for military and classic stocks. All other stocks get several coats of Birchwood Casey Tru-Oil. I never sand a finished stock, but do use fine steel wool between finish coats. So what do you like? All the best...
Gil

Howdy Gil. Most of my stuff is synthetic but i did just refinish a old single shot 410 and used the birchwood casey tru-oil it came out rather nice i used the same method steel wool between coats. Is the linseed oil darker than the tru-oil What kind of finish does it have

Hi Gil,
I"ve used Tru-oil on a few and they came out great. I use red scotch brite pads between coats instead of steel wool. The last stock I finished I used Minwax Helmsman spar urethane satin in the spray can. I sanded between coats and let me tell you that is some tough stuff. Even though it is a little more work I will use it on the next one.

I refinished an old single shot 28 ga last year and I used Birchwood-Casey as well. It worked great for me and it was the first time I'd ever done it. I used 400 grit sandpaper after the first coat and 0000 steel wool between the next 2 coats. I didn't sand at all before the final coat.

Blaine

I have used Boiled Linseed oil and something else, may be tru oil. I used wet dry between coats and extra fine steel wool ( 0000 ). I prefer the boiled Linseed oil finish the best. I just like the way it feels in my hands. Plus it is very easy to work with. You almost can't make a mistake.



longwalker

shrpshtrjoe,
Boiled linseed oil turns out about the same color as Tru-Oil, but takes longer to dry. Birchwood Casey dries faster and gets a shiny finish which can be toned down a bit with some fine steel wool. I usually put a few base coats of boiled linseed oil on all the stocks I refinish. All the best...
Gil

I have used Tru-Oil on several stocks with great results. The application method I use leaves a light surface finish which I like. I fooled around with thining it and finally decided I liked it best right out of the bottle.

I used Watco's Danish Oil on one stock and it looks great. On the Watco stock, there is no surface finish.
rimshot

Welcome to the Forum. Glad to see your post. All the best...
Gil

I use Tru-oil for most of my stock jobs. I use quite a few coats and really take my time so I don't get uneven build-up. There's a lot of rubbing involved, but it's really worth it. It's not a task for a guy in a hurry. Best wishes.

Cal - Montreal

While we got this topic running, lets see some photos of the finished products. I would really like to see some of the finishes that you all have. I am a big fan of wood stocks myself. I think you have all seen mine already but here is my favorite stock photo to start things off.

Knifeboy

Knifeboy,
Very nice! I do not have a digital camera so am a bit handicapped in sharing photos. All the best...
Gil

Below (I hope) is a pic just took of my only re-finishing jobs. The light colored one is a very old (and severely mis-treated) 28 ga Stevens I inherited. The 22 is a cheap Marlin that I couldn't do much with. The finish is okay, but the wood was not much to start with.

knifeboy that is a really nice finish what stain did u use to redue it i personally recently redid a 22-250 i dont have nepictures yet but ill get them posted

On my built Muzzleloaders I use boiled linseed oil only. On modern firearms the only product that I have used is Tru Oil, normally I thin it out a bit so it soaks into the wood better. Then also I have used Duracoat and some other paints on stocks. One that has worked very well you may not have thought of but it really works well. At WallyWorld, KameApart and many other establishments they have spray paints that simulate diffrent shades of Granite, these paints provide multi earth tones and a nicely textured surface. By themselves they are not very durable but with 4 -5 coats of a mat/satin clear coat they hold up very well, they also cover wood very well when a primer is used over a lightly sanded stock such as a factory 10-22 or an inexpensive birch or plain stock that would not look all that good in a natural style finish. Plus the texture helps as compaired to the smooth plain wood. Give it a try, I'm sure you will like the results.

I've always used tung oil for all my stocks. Has always worked well and if you scratch or ding the stock, it is easy to repair. Depending on the stock, I put from 5 to 10 coats of tung oil with a light rub down with 0000 steelwool between coats. When I'm satisfied with the finish I hand rub with pure carnuba wax. Funny thing, the only place I can get pure carnuba wax around here is at the Harley Davidson shop. Just finished a stock for an old 788 Remington in 22-250. Stock came from Royal Arms Gunstocks and is Oregon Myrtlewood with Zebrawood caps. Stock looks great and if I can ever figure out my scanner, I post a pic. Don't know that I would use myrtlewood again, looks great, but tends to flake when your sanding it.