So I Clean my barrel and the chamber and them I put a very small amount of lubricant on a patch and run it down the barrel. then I lubricate the bolt ETC. I run a dry patch down the barrel to remove the excess.

But there is still some of the initial lube left in the chamber.

The point: Case thrust

Is there really that big of an issue with cleaning case lube off my reloads?

Always use a bore guide that fits your chamber closely! There is no reason to lubricate your chamber. Clean the barrel from the breach to the muzzle with solvent, remove the bore guide to clean the chamber with an oversize bore brush or a chamber brush and solvent. Dry the chamber and replace the bore guide. Always run the patches from the chamber to the muzzle and never backwards (from the muzzle to the chamber). Run dry patches from the chamber to the muzzle until the barrel is clean and dry. Remove the bore guide and clean it. Clean any solvent from the chamber and reinstall the bore guide. If you must oil the barrel then use a wad wrapped around a smaller than normal bore brush and insert it from the chamber end pushed out to the muzzle with the muzzle pointed down. Follow it with a dry patch. remove the bore guide. Your gun is clean, the bore is protected with a light coating of gun oil and your chamber is dry. Be sure to store the gun in a level or bore down attitude. run a clean dry patch through right before you use the gun. You can use a light gun oil in the chamber if you are careful to remove the oil before you shoot.
Errors that are common:
Too much oil is used in bore - it should appear slightly wet but no oil should be visible on a patch run through the bore. The bolt can be lubed with a patch with a couple of drops of oil on it - no need to drip oil all over the bolt - it wastes oil and collects dust that will wear the action out. All oiled parts should be "shiny" but dry. a wad wiped over the oiled parts will come away clean and dry. ONLY USE GUN OIL!
A good gun oil regardless of cost is 50% Dextron ATF and 50% Kerosine. This is as good a gun oil as there is. It is chemically non-reactive and will clean and lubricate parts without leaving a heavy film that runs into places it should not be. It will keep moisture from the metal so long as there is a film on the metal and will penetrate metal parts that are porous. It will not damage blueing, and will add depth to most non-plastic finishes. With prolonged contact it can damage plastic and urethane finishes so keep it off your stock unless you have an oil finish.
This gun oil will help remove the sticky thick and wax case lubes from your sized cases. Wipe them with an oiled cloth (not soaked just a few drops on a cloth) and then with a dry soft cloth and then paper towels. Paper will remove almost all the oil on metal parts - never use paper towels to wipe down your gun or any machined metal finish - always use cloth.

Questions? Rebuttal?

Thanks PaulS, just playing the devils advocate to point out the importance of proper cleaning of firearms and ammunition.

Keep it up

Chambers should not be lubricated, this is especially true for blowback operated firearms. Cartridge cases rely on the friction that is generated to maintain their position in the chamber during the initial impulse of firing. A bottleneck cartridge fired in a slightly oversize chamber (toward the upper end legnth of specs.) will blow the shoulder forward a few thousandths. This will shorten the life of the case as you will have to move the shoulder back, which will work harden the brass and lead into splits. In addition it does cause more pressure to be placed on the locking lugs/bolt due to the case not being able to "stick" for the initial firing impulse. With a blowback operated firearm it can lead to DANGEROUS case head failure due to the case moving out of the chamber while pressures are near their peak, this sets up a failure of the material just forward of the web to blow outward due to no chamber support. Dry chambers are safe chambers, also dry chambers are also more accurate.

Oh darn...And I've been doing it all wrong all the 50 years....

After shooting...after cleaning....making ready for storage...I'd rather go with a chamber containing a lite coat of oil...ya know to fend off rust........

'Course it gets wiped out with alcohol or carb cleaner prior to shooting again.........

Aaah Wildswalker...You're just gettin' me even deeper in trouble with these clean freaks. Just toooo many operations and chemicals to get and processes keep a firearm clean. I don't think I can remember all of them . I always oil my chambers. Well, too, I might add...Like Wildswalker said. Of course I dry them out prior to range ops. I also fire three fouling shots prior to hunting. But I only use two fluids to clean these guns of mine (and some are quite old and still out shoot me) Hoppe's gun oil and Hoppe's Benchrest 9 copper solvent. I do use powder solvent in my shotguns. So I guess you could say I have three fluids. Some of you make it too complicated and difficult...When I come back from the range I have usually 9 to 10 firearms to clean. I'm not going to go to all those processes as I would still be cleaning when I went to the range the next time. Geeeeezzzz-O-Pete..........

And... no WD40 right?
he he he couldn't help myself.

In light of what Bushmaster has wrote....and I agree whole heartedly with him by the way.......I have a 25-06 Ruger #1 that hasn't had the bore cleaned since before deer season.....it's not technically being stored at this time as it gets shot quite regularly.....The bore is slick smooth and fends off fouling pretty well but there probably is a bit in there and I really should scrub it out....

Bushy's comments on overdoing the cleaning and overdoing the purchase of cleaning "stuff" gives me the oportunity to clean this rifle and prove once and for all that my method and my chosen cleaning "stuff" is the best...........which I have stated eleswhere on this site<grins>

I will clean this rifle tomorrow....take pictures and time the process....just to show how good and how fast Hoppe's Elite bore cleaner is at getting the copper out of a bore......look for it on the copper solvent thread.

I hate to keep this cheap/easy/fast secret all to myself......<laughin' here>

You are absolutely correct. Gelandangan...

After cleaning my firearms I give the bore and chamber a light coat of oil. Where I live in Australia we have a bit of a problem with humidity so I figure better to be safe than sorry.

When I lived in Cairns in Far North Queensland we had small heaters in ever wardrobe.....not to warm up the house, but to dry out any moisture than the humidity produced. If you didn't have these heaters your shoes, anything leather, would grow a coating of furry mildew almost overnight and clothes would get mildew stains on them. This moisture would also invade the gun cabinet/safe and surface rust would appear almost overnight. In addition to oiling my firearms I also keep a 1kg bag of dessicant in each of my gun cabinets.

Of course each firearm gets a thorough clean out of oil prior to firing.

Cheers, Vince

Like Bushmaster, I'd Rather be shootin than cleanin. A couple of quick sprays and a patch or two, and i'm back at the range.

Did turn out to be another interesting thread.

More?

mc223 wrote:

Like Bushmaster, I'd Rather be shootin than cleanin. A couple of quick sprays and a patch or two, and i'm back at the range. Did turn out to be another interesting thread. More?

That's about the way it usually goes around here as well most of the time except for the ocasional deep cleaning job.

Hi mc223.....the best treatment of chambers,case expansion and bolt thrust effects can be found at VARMINT AL'S (www.varmintal.com).
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SHOOTIST

Oil in the chamber will not compress… This means in effect a smaller chamber. It will affect both pressure and accuracy. I always “dry” the chamber with a Clean tight Mop &Patches.