New to reloading
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#31: Re: New to reloading Author: 84jeepj10, Location: Ft. Hood, TX PostPosted: Mon May 07, 2007 8:17 pm
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Why do you suggest the Federal #210m Gold Medal Match primers? What advantages do they have over standard Fed #210 primers?
#32: Re: New to reloading Author: d_hoffman, Location: Chillicothe, Ohio PostPosted: Mon May 07, 2007 9:35 pm
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They are a higher grade, more consistant primer used a lot in competition. Just like match grade bullets, they are a little more accurate.
#33: Re: New to reloading Author: K.W., Location: Finland PostPosted: Tue May 08, 2007 12:10 am
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I assume you have not reloaded a lot, at least not enough to get into much experimenting. If or when you do, you will try some things that shoot so inaccurately that firing all of the ammo will be a waste. THAT'S when you will use a bullet puller to salvage the components for reuse. Shocked

Finland? Can you ship me a SAKO for cheap? :-D[/quote].......Hello everybody. First: Sako is no more Sako. It is now third class Sako/Beretta. I mean new modell 85. Sako´s birth day modell 75 was last real Sako(so and so). Sako is cheaper in USA than for me here in Finland, I think so. I am not home and have no prislist (taking care chicken box-grandson) . Maby cheapist is USA-$ 2500 in Finland. Second: Iam 68 year old and keeping reload tents of years.Now days I keep reloading 12 my own calipers.(ofcourse I need some more, but my wife and police says
: that is inaf) When I start making a new load, I use cheep bullets(made in Bosnia- Hertzegovina or Tsech- Rebublik). No ok-loads I keep shooting standing position. I like it more than some bullet puller. I hope, that this writing is something you can to read. With frendship Kauko
#34: Re: New to reloading Author: 84jeepj10, Location: Ft. Hood, TX PostPosted: Wed May 09, 2007 7:28 pm
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The Lyman 100 beam scale is on it's way. Should get it in a fwe days. Hopefully I'll be able to divert some funds form my paycheck to get the basic supplies for my first load(s). Priced at my local gunshop I can get powder/primer/bullets for under $50.00.
#35: Re: New to reloading Author: 84jeepj10, Location: Ft. Hood, TX PostPosted: Wed May 09, 2007 11:43 pm
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84jeepj10 wrote:

What is an acceptable tolerance in case lengths in a run of loads? Example, I have some Remington 30-06sprg once fired (from my rifle) brass and when I measured the case lengths out of 20 shells I got a max length variance of .007" meaning my cases run from 2.480" to 2.487" and everything in between. All shells are from the same factory box of ammo. Will this affect my accuracy if I seat all the bullets the same depth?

Nobody touched this question. Any help please?
#36: Re: New to reloading Author: terry264, Location: Eastern-North Central West Virginia PostPosted: Thu May 10, 2007 12:01 am
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jeep, as long as the cases are less than 2.494" which is the max. length, you should be good to go. The "trim-to" length is usually .010" less than max., so 2.484" trimmed length whenever you must trim. If you are crimping the bullets in place they should all be about the same so they crimp nice.
#37: Re: New to reloading Author: 84jeepj10, Location: Ft. Hood, TX PostPosted: Thu May 10, 2007 1:21 am
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I get that much, but I want to know will it affect my accuracy any?

What are the pros/cons of crimping? When do I need to?

Is there a printable version of the reloading database I can get to?
#38: Re: New to reloading Author: terry264, Location: Eastern-North Central West Virginia PostPosted: Thu May 10, 2007 10:49 am
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jeep, the only cartridge cases I ever crimped were for a Mod. 94 Win. in 30-30 due to the tubular magazine under spring tension so the bullets don't slip back into the case. The max. case length is the main thing to worry about with case length due to running out of chamber length to lock up the action. When the bullet is seated the press is locating off the shellholder and the stop on the loading press lever, it doesn't know your cases vary a little in length, but the overall loaded length will be the same and the distance from the bullet to the rifling will be the same. The neck tension on the bullet will all be the same unless you are using some super short (light) bullet wt. as they will all be back into the case below the neck anyway. Also, measure your case length after you resize not before as resizing usually stretches them a bit. The next time these cases are resized you won't find any that short anyway, might need trimmed. I do not think your accuracy will be affected to any point that hunting accuracy will suffer. I've never noticed any difference between a shorter case length and others. The most important factor is their loaded length and distance from the throat or rifling "lead" in the barrel where the rifling starts. Not sure about a printable version of a reloading database myself, since I have so many manuals I don't need one. Sometimes I got to hodgdon.com or other sites to check for something new but don't print them out. Some I've saved into documents and come to think of it I have printed out one or two from documents for someone else. Hope this helps, Terry.
#39: Re: New to reloading Author: d_hoffman, Location: Chillicothe, Ohio PostPosted: Thu May 10, 2007 3:15 pm
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Consistant case length does make a difference if you're going for extreme accuracy and consistant shot placement at longer ranges. If you have say a .010 varience in your cases, this will cause inconsistant pressures from one round to the next. A couple of thousandths difference is ok unless you're shooting competition.

Also, a light to medium crimp will help in accuracy. It allows for a more complete burn of your powder charge. Having a consistant case length will give you a consistant crimp, making consistant pressures, making more consistant and accurate rounds.
#40: Re: New to reloading Author: 84jeepj10, Location: Ft. Hood, TX PostPosted: Thu May 10, 2007 7:00 pm
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What's the price difference between regular and match primers? Like the Fed #210 and the Fed #210m?

Also, what's the difference between H4350 and IMR 4350? The same with H4895 and IMR 4895? I think I'm honna go with the H4350, it seems to cover most loads in 30-06sprg, still trying to figure out how to interpret burn rates.
#41: Re: New to reloading Author: d_hoffman, Location: Chillicothe, Ohio PostPosted: Thu May 10, 2007 7:14 pm
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Midway USA prices;

Fed. #210, $22.99 per 1000ct
Fed. #210m, $28.49 per 1000ct
Your local gunshop might be cheaper and
They might sell them by the 100ct
Good choice on the powder.
#42: Re: New to reloading Author: george20042007, Location: Arizona PostPosted: Thu May 10, 2007 11:07 pm
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jeep, I see some good answer's to your questions so won't go over ground covered. One more thing to know about crimping has to do with bullet movement in heavy kickers like 44 mag, 454 casull, 460 S&W, 500 S&W and the like. There are a number of big rifle calibers that require heavy crimps as well. Most published loading data will tell you if a crimp is required and how it should be (light, medium or heavy). My 45 long colts require no crimp at all, they are light loads resulting in hardly any noticeable kick. My 460 S&W, on the other hand, require a very heavy crimp. That cartridge fills the chamber completely and any bullet movement could result in cylinder rotation problems. To avoid accuracy problems when crimping, as it was stated by others, make sure all cases are trimmed to the same length.

Keep it coming...
#43: Re: New to reloading Author: 84jeepj10, Location: Ft. Hood, TX PostPosted: Fri May 11, 2007 1:14 am
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I've got some Korean surplus I've been using to plink and get used to the rifle. However I've noticed that they're not all seated the same because they don't all feed properly in my bolt gun and rarely I have trouble opening the bolt. No deformation noticed on the primers/cases. They have standard primers (very similar to Lake City M2 Ball 30-06 Sprg) though I don't intend to reload the brass as it's not very good quality. They are crimped, my question is could I still ise my Lee Loader to seat all the rounds the same. Example, find the round that best chambers in my rifle and is within OAL tolerences and set my seating gauge to that. Than place the remaining rounds in there and seat them to that depth without using a puller to remove them first or remove the crimp? Will it screw up the bullets or cases, is it dangerous?
#44: Re: New to reloading Author: 84jeepj10, Location: Ft. Hood, TX PostPosted: Fri May 11, 2007 1:06 pm
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I got my powder scale in today. Don't have to worry about mistakes with that powder dipper anymore. I would feel a bit more comfortable if I had a set of check weights to confirm it's measurements though, any idea where I can get those and how much? Or do I reall need to worry about that? The scale I got is a Lyman 1000 beam scale, it has all it's parts.
It has a brass counterweight that I put on it if I need to weigh over 500grn up to 1005grn. When I weighed the counterweight (after zeroing the scale according to the manual) it measures out to 256.3grn, does that sound right?
It seems t obe in full working order, no damage to the parts everythings clean and fits/functions smoothley together.
#45: Re: New to reloading Author: Morax, Location: Pittsburgh Pa PostPosted: Fri May 11, 2007 1:14 pm
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i usually do spot checks by dropping a bullet on it, say like a 170 grain hollow point.. of course you can always go to midway or dillon and they got the sets..
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