Anyone out there with extensive knowledge about glass bedding? I have a model 700 sps varmint heavy barrell in .243 i have just put an hs precision stock on it and was going to do a home bedding job.

Thanks,

Toddco

toddco wrote:

hs precision stock

How is the stock configured? Already pillar bedded or inset block? Have you already shot it to see if it even needs to be bedded. I was thinking about bedding a stock on one of my rifles, but when it was shooting 4 different loads under 1 moa and 3 of those at 0.5 moa, I didn't even want to touch it.

A picture would be nice of the stock where the action would be.

Slimjim is right, if it is pillar bedded I would leave it alone except perhaps bedding the recoil lug mortise. I only have the one rifle wearing an HS stock and it beds rock solid. The only reason I bedded the recoil mortise is that I wanted to eliminate any chance of lateral movement...not that any was perceptible anyway.

HS uses a chassis system that was designed as a direct bolt on replacement that does not require any bedding !!!

I understand SSL's theory and would not disagree with him on it however my dad owns a HS built 700 Remington that has no bedding and can't see any reason to add it.

There are some who believe even if pillars are used a skim coat of bedding is still needed........Not that I'm an expert or anything but it doesn't make sense to me !!!

It quite probably was totally unnecessary for me to bed the recoil mortise, but I just get nervous when I see gaps in any supporting area! Just my paranoia kicking in!

I have 2 HS Precision stocks and plenty of pics

First remove any old bedding if there is any




then insert the rifle into the stock with some kind of liquid on the bottom of the barrel so that it will leave a wet mark where the barrel is hitting the forearm


A dremel tool works great for removing stock material


keep inserting, marking and removing the barrel until the barrel no longer contacts the stock. Make sure and get a consistant gap at the edges of the barrel


I like to use the green box Acraglas for the bedding and Birchwood Casey Stock wax for the release agent.


The Acraglas will come with a release agent but it is too thin for my liking and hard to see where you have applied it. It is very important to coat all the surfaces of the gun that you do not want the bedding compound to stick to.

Put a couple of layers of tape on the front of the recoil lug


so as to leave a gap that will make it easier to insert and remove your action. Then coat everything including the outside edges of the stock and the action screws with the release compound


In these pics I used MarineTex instead of Acraglas but will use the Acraglas on the next bedding job


Insert the barrel in and leave for 24 hours and when you break the stock loose it will look like this


Clean it up around the edges and even up the edge at the front.

It is a little scary the first couple of times you do it but just make sure to coat all the surfaces with the release compound and you will be OK

great pictures woods! I've always debated whether to bed infront of the recoil lug and then how far. There seems to be varied opinions out there. What is yours?

Most guys I know of doing bedding work will only bed the first 1/2-3/4 of the chamber area and only when they're dealing with long heavy bull type barrels !!!

chambered221 wrote:

bed the first 1/2-3/4 of the chamber area and only when they're dealing with long heavy bull type barrels

That was what I have come to believe also. If you go any beyond the straight chamber area then you start altering the natural harmonics of the barrel more.

I was doing this bedding because I had rebarreled to a 338RUM with a Brux #5 contour and the chamber and barrel was bigger than the factory 338 win mag barrel that came off it. I like to bed the entire chamber area and part of the barrel just in front.

To me the receiver and barrel join right at the recoil lug area. If you do not bed in front of the recoil lug then the weight of the barrel is pulling down on the recoil lug which is at the junction. Seems better to me to support the receiver in the pillar bedded stock, the recoil lug functions as a transfer point for horizontal backward forces only and the barrel is supported by a good bed under the chamber to hold the barrel in a free floating forearm without the weight bearing on the junction of all 3.

It seems to shoot OK with it bedded like this

woods wrote:

I had rebarreled to a 338RUM with a Brux #5 contour and the chamber and barrel was bigger than the factory 338 win mag barrel that came off it.

When you have a nice group like that, OK just doesn't seem to correctly cover it. Why the switch from Win Mag to RUM?

slimjim wrote:

woods wrote: I had rebarreled to a 338RUM with a Brux #5 contour and the chamber and barrel was bigger than the factory 338 win mag barrel that came off it. When you have a nice group like that, OK just doesn't seem to correctly cover is. Why the switch from Win Mag to RUM?

Got tired of pushing the 338 win mag hard in order to get 2800 fps with a decent sectional density bullet like a 225 gr. Was getting the crap kicked out of me anyway. Also wanted a capable long range gun and most of the long rangers shoot the heavy 338's like the 338 Lapua, 338 Allen Mag, 338RUM etc.

Was losing the primer pockets at that upper load in the pic so I have dropped down to 94 gr RL25 for ~3050 fps which was all the velocity I wanted in the first place.

woods, I've been working my loads for shooting my .270 Win at longer ranges with Barnes Bullets. I found that the weight of their bullets vary by a grain or more. I sorted the bullets by 0.1 gr weights and plan to shot matched bullet weights to see if the groups improve. Hopefully like the groups I get from my Bergers which are all within 0.1 gr of each other. If you try that, let me know what results you get. I'm not sure when I'm going to be able to get back out again.

Oh, have you checked out these bullets.

www.gsgroup.co.za/techdata.html