Ok, I own a terrific .22-250. Its a Rugar #1V from the early 80's (the famously accurate quality ones).

Anyway after 3500ish rounds through it the throat is getting burned back a tad. Accuracy when seating just off the lands is still in the .25" - .3" range... the only problem is to get just off the lands my bullets are litterally seated 1/32" deep or less in the case. This is ok for range work but pushing sagebrush for jackrabbits it doesnt work as the bullets fall out too easy while walking around (the ones in my pickets lol).

So my question is, I've heard some people can have had 1/4" or so cut off the chamber end of the barrel, then retapped and chambered. Anyone familiar with this and cost? How does it relate to a quality new barrel? I really hate to give up one that shooting this good.

The obvious solution of course is a 2nd rifle to carry while pushing for rabbits and reserve this one for the bench... but I dont think I can swing that past my wife


-DallanC

Dallen, I have had barrels set back and the process works fine, the big question is, are you positive that it's just the throat thats worn? The 22-250 is a pretty hot little setup almost as bad as my 220 Swift. If you have bore scoped the barrel and there is no scaling or pitting and the lands and grooves still look sharp, then I would recommend that you set the barrel back. Cost will be just about the same as a new chamber mainly because of setup time. I know it's difficult to retire a tack driver so keep an open mind when having the barrel scoped. A lot of rifles will come right back to form by setting them back and putting on a fresh crown as long as the rest of the tube is in good shape.

Yep, I'd set 'er back and load 'er up as before. It sounds as though you have a good barrel beyond the burnt area. I have an '80s Ruger 1V in 22/250 and its seen close to 8000 shots. Still doing those 0.175 to 0.250" groups with the Sierra 50 gr. Blitz bullets and H380. Those p'dogs hate to see me drivin' up to a dogtown. The 1V and a Remington 700 V stainless, fluted in 22/250 make for a bad day at blackrock for the dogs. Lots of fun,

Rechambering is the same as installing a used barrel. Sure it may work fine for a few hundred rounds but not as long as a new barrel. Labor costs will be near the same as installing a new barrel.
Shooting as good as it is now why not try another bullet in attempt to get a bit more grip.

Ben

The problem with a 22/250 is the 14 twist -- hard to go to a much longer bullet.

When setting back, 1/4 inch won't do much for you. The flame cracking goes down the throat much farther than that. To get into fresh steel, I would think 1 1/2 to 2" would be more like it, or you will get just a few hundred rounds out of it.

The negatives, as I see them: I don't know if I'd want a short barrelled 22/250, you would have to go through load development again (those 2" had harmonics, too!), the barrel life would be shorter than before.

In your position, I'd moonlight for somone and build them a little website for cash, and use that money for a new match grade barrel. Hard for the wife to argue with that (if she DID find out....). JMO, Dutch.

I faced this same problem with my .22-250 and finally opted for a new Hart 26" SS varmint barrel. It was expensive, but I've never regretted it.
I don't think removing a 1/2" of barrel will do it. At least 2", maybe more will probably be required to get past the cracking. How long is the barrel you have on the rifle? You don't require something that looks like a lead pipe. As long as the tube is about .75" at the muzzle you should be okay. The problem with my new barrel is it brings the rifles weight up to about 12lbs., a real bear to lug around. Are you sure your rifle requires seating into the lands for best accuracy. I have a couple of varmint rifles that prefer a jump to the lands. It will gain you a little more space for seating the bullet in the case, but not all that much. Anyway, take your time and select wisely. Best wishes.

Cal - Montreal

Buy your wife a really nice, new 22-250!