i did a search and didnot find anything so here ya go.. I have been told by a competant gunsmith, and a few gun owners one of whom i would put more faith in than anyone really, that you can use wax for on the firearms, much like it protects a car finish. has anyone else heard of this practice? or is it just one of those wives tails??

Sure why not, just adding a layer of wax ontop of the firearm, it will protect the rifle, dont know how good it would do while hunting or with the heat of the barrel though. A layer of wax will protect the metal that its covering from water and therefor help I'd imagine.

Dimitri

yeah the theory behind it sounded good but i just didnt know there is a lot that sounds good, you know marrage kids, minivans.... hahah

Morax,

Whats wrong with marriage and kids ?? I understand Mini-Vans but not the first 2

Dimitri

hahha nothing i have had 2 of each, hahah

I use paste wax on many of my firearms. Both steel and wood. I especially like to wax the parts of rifles that can not be wiped down easily. For example I dont care to dissassemble my glass bedded bolt actions any more than nessessary so I apply wax to underside of barreled action before assembly, keeps moisture from causing rust if any seeps in. I use Butchers brand paste wax, but there are other brands as well. I dont know how automotive wax would work.

Wax will work fine on smooth hard surfaces like the barrel or reciever. I would be wary of it's penetrating ability into cracks and crannies. That's where a lot of rust starts. Oil will seep or 'leach' into these areas over time or with careful application, wax might not.

You can also use wax on wood stocks. I have done so regularly for years. Puts a bit of extra sheen on them, but I do it as protection from rain, etc.

Jack wrote:

You can also use wax on wood stocks. I have done so regularly for years. Puts a bit of extra sheen on them, but I do it as protection from rain, etc.

ok Jack, do you just grab whats handy from the garage, or do you use a particular kind/brand

morax, that gives me an idea. I think I'll get some turtle wax an' my 10" buffer an' go to town. He HE :lol:If it works on a car why not a stock. But clear polyurethane would probly work better. Dave

fireball 3 wrote:

morax, that gives me an idea. I think I'll get some turtle wax an' my 10" buffer an' go to town. He HE :lol:If it works on a car why not a stock. But clear polyurethane would probly work better. Dave

ok I know you was kidding, but now why couldnt you grab the turtle wax and a buff rag and go to town? the clear poly is just like the clear coat on a car, so thats a non issue really, as with the poly you have to break it down sand it and basically do a refinish on the stock, whereas the waxing would bring the shine back a bit, but would also protect some, and would not damage the metal if you got some on it. going to have to look into this a bit more

I use 6 to 8 coats of tonge oil ,after it's dry about 2 weeks, I then put a medium coat of poly like you would use on tobagan, let it dry for 2 to 3 days then give it a final coat . After it's dry, it have a very touch cover to resist nick scratches and gouging. A plus is that if damaged just sand area smooth then reseal.

Prior to the advent of the sythetic/stainless options, rifles were used regularly in harsh conditions. And, they did well if the wood and metal was properly protected. There are numerous products that will help.

Carnuba wax is among the hardest wax surfaces. Treewax furniture wax contains carnuba. When waxing a rifle, I prefer to take the action out of the stock and wax all exposed metal and wood. Stainless steel will rust as well, so this technique isn't limited to carbon steel.

For those wishing to completely seal a wood stock, using generous amounts of wood sealer on the wood under the recoil pad or buttplate is, also, a good idea. Sealer takes a few coats but dries quickly (3-4 hours at room temp) and then the carnuba is placed over the sealed portion.

When wet weather hunting is planned, I will use two to four coats of carnuba applied at room temperature and allowed to thoroughly dry between coats. I have never had rust or warpage with rifles so treated.

Morax wrote:

fireball 3 wrote: morax, that gives me an idea. I think I'll get some turtle wax an' my 10" buffer an' go to town. He HE :lol:If it works on a car why not a stock. But clear polyurethane would probly work better. Dave ok I know you was kidding, but now why couldnt you grab the turtle wax and a buff rag and go to town? the clear poly is just like the clear coat on a car, so thats a non issue really, as with the poly you have to break it down sand it and basically do a refinish on the stock, whereas the waxing would bring the shine back a bit, but would also protect some, and would not damage the metal if you got some on it. going to have to look into this a bit more

once again off topic. not wanting how to refinish a stock.

handloader-- yes you are right pure carnuba wax can only be spred/appied with heat and pressure, a very hard very big hassle to mess with, I was useing the term as per thats the normal that is added into the standard waxes that you can get over the counter for furniture, and vehicles and the like.. its one of those extra little things that can be done on top of everything else you know what i am saying...