Yup...a long time...

He is very confused...
He needs 2x8s for the exterior walls and 2x6s for the interior. The only thing to use 2x4s on is laminating doors together.

To me they are 4x2's
And they are bit like WD-40 - Can be used for everything

PaulS wrote:

He is very confused... He needs 2x8s for the exterior walls and 2x6s for the interior. The only thing to use 2x4s on is laminating doors together. ;)

Paul, is that a local WA standard to promote lumber use?

slimjim wrote:

Paul, is that a local WA standard to promote lumber use?

I was curious about that too... most construction here is still 2x4's.

-DallanC

I believe the standard for earth quake areas the minimum size is 2x6 for dwellings. I just adopted the 2x8 for myself. When sheathed it has 50$ more strength and 100% more rigidity in shear panels.
You can build garages and non-dwellings with 2x4 but when I built my garage and shop I used 2x6s and sheathing inside and out. I surpassed every code listed for both buildings even if they had been dwellings.
They are good for 8.0 earthquake and 120 mph winds with 10% gusts. R60 insulation in the ceilings and R25 in the walls and an insulated founadion and floor.
The first winter I found I could heat them by leaving the lights on. The next summer I put in a mini split to heat and cool them with the one unit.

downunder its definately a 4x2

Vince will possible remember this famous line
"when she decked him with a 4x2 the whole school stood and gawked,"listen here you little shite weve got to F N talk"

PaulS, pardon me, but why chose the heavier things when you fear an earthquake? Isn't it so that they sleep in tents just to avoid getting some heavy wood or concrete on their heads?

Elvis wrote:

downunder its definately a 4x2

Do you guys always use the bigger number first? ie: 6x2, 8x2 etc? Nothing wrong with it, just seems odd as here in the states we go the other way, 2x4's, 4x6's, 2x12s... 4x8 plywood etc etc.

I guess we do it the same as with antlers... buck was a 2x3, 4x5, 6x8 etc... lol

-DallanC

Aloysius wrote:

PaulS, pardon me, but why chose the heavier things when you fear an earthquake? Isn't it so that they sleep in tents just to avoid getting some heavy wood or concrete on their heads?

Heavier alone doesn't say much. I use the larger lumber on the outside walls to add strength in the vertical and horizontal directions. To help with that and to add rigidity I use sheathing on both sides of the frame, inside and outside. The larger frame allows more insulation for less heating load. The sheathing on the walls, ceiling and roof is tied into constant diaphragms that resist twisting and buckling. The earth moves and the house moves with it but doesn't flex so it doesn't reach failure. It is also tied to the foundation every 32 inches so the whole system is stable.
If you build right on a fault then the house will move with the fault... If one side drops then your house will sit at a funny angle but it will likely remain in one piece. The idea is to build far away from any faults. The structure should handle about 2G's of force. Fire proofing is added to the outside of the house and metal roof with no penetrations keeps the water out. All the nails are replaced with the appropriate screws to keep pieces together under all loads.

DallanC wrote:

Elvis wrote: downunder its definately a 4x2 Do you guys always use the bigger number first? ie: 6x2, 8x2 etc? Nothing wrong with it, just seems odd as here in the states we go the other way, 2x4's, 4x6's, 2x12s... 4x8 plywood etc etc. I guess we do it the same as with antlers... buck was a 2x3, 4x5, 6x8 etc... lol -DallanC

we surely do...and antlers what you would call a 6x6 we call a twelve,or a royal.
my trailer is 8x4 feet and yes so is a sheet of plywood.

so....when giving coordinates...do you "lay her down before you stick it up"

get to the stairs before climbing up......

PaulS wrote:

Heavier alone doesn't say much. I use the larger lumber on the outside walls to add strength in the vertical and horizontal directions. To help with that and to add rigidity I use sheathing on both sides of the frame, inside and outside. The larger frame allows more insulation for less heating load. The sheathing on the walls, ceiling and roof is tied into constant diaphragms that resist twisting and buckling. The earth moves and the house moves with it but doesn't flex so it doesn't reach failure. It is also tied to the foundation every 32 inches so the whole system is stable. If you build right on a fault then the house will move with the fault... If one side drops then your house will sit at a funny angle but it will likely remain in one piece. The idea is to build far away from any faults. The structure should handle about 2G's of force. Fire proofing is added to the outside of the house and metal roof with no penetrations keeps the water out. All the nails are replaced with the appropriate screws to keep pieces together under all loads.

All things being equal, I'd much rather have 2x6's on my outer walls than 2x4s. Now that I think of it, I think 2x6's are code when going beyond a 8ft wall.

-DallanC

Paul...I assume you have a "floating foundation" eg concrete pad that has holes full of concrete underneath it down to solid stuff or bedrock????
watched them do it for house in Timaru years back...bored all these holes,filled with concrete,then poured foundation slab on top of them.

Just a remark: I've been told that in Germany hunters have to use nails when building a high seat because screws will break sooner than nails...


just giving food for discussion

Aloysius,
There are screws that are not so brittle made for construction. They are actually about 50% stronger in all conditions and 10X more resistant to pulling out.