150gr AccuBond Long Range for .270

Elvis

what a pity Nosler doesnt think a bit and just get the already extremely good 150grn partition and add a ballistic tip to it, upping B.C. from what is already a great bullet by all accounts..Ive just loaded up 15 to try out this coming roar.

TwoSeventy

I purchased 100 rounds of the Nosler Accubond LR.. I did some reloading at 150GR bullets.. Went to range to see how they would shoot with my Ruger 270. Results were not good but I new I could work on this for better accuracy by playing around with different powder loads.ans A.O.L. .
Now that winter is here I,ve worked up some different loads to try out in the spring when our range opens up.
In the mean time on a boring afternoon, I got on the internet to do some reviews on this Accubond LR . and sorry to say they all pointed to one thing and that is not good. Hunters have found these bullets to fragment or not stay together. Here,s the reason, in order to have this bullet to work ok down to 1300 F.P.S.. they had to thin wall the copper from nose down to the bullets hips.
This made this bullet because of thin copper walls it created a fragmentation potential. And that,s what hunters have been talking about. Also Nosler seems to have some bonding problems with this bullet. Check out the reviews on the internet . I have pulled all my Accubond LR loaded rounds and went back to Nosler Partitions 150Grain,s. nosler recommends this round for hunters shooting beyond 400yds. Remember the further yds out you shoot, the bullet velocity continues to drop. That,s where the workable stated 1300 F.P.S. came from for this Accubond LR. Wanted to advise you guys before you spend a lot of money on these bullet,s.
As far as my experience goes I,ve been a deer hunter for over 40 yrs..
Good luck out there, I am sorry to have had to tell you guy,s about this Accubond LR reviews ok.

Vince

Gidday TwoSeventy...I see you've pulled up a stump and grabbed a beer which is good stuff mate.

Never be sorry for passing on the results of your experience mate...that's what we are all about here...caring and sharing. If you have found something that works and are happy to pass it one, that makes life a little easier for someone else, likewise with a problem you have identified mate. Great work and well done.

TwoSeventy

Vince,
Kinda came back mate to review things on this Accubond LR bullets and I got a thought to try something just to see bullet internal structure better.
I took one of my 150gr,s out of the new box and cranked open the vice on my reloading table down cellar. Even though it,s winter here, our cellar heats ok or is comfortable for working down there.
I placed the bullet straight in line with the jaws of the vice and slowly started applying pressure and of course the bullet front end started to easily collapse.
The nose rolled right over and split open and to my surprise, the copper at the split look paper thin. Not good I though to myself. So this little experiment I did more than proved to me the cause of bullet splitting apart in game on bone game structures, shoulder ect.. Slimjim,s got me interested in trying out 120 MKZ bullets for hunting with. Sold by cavitybackbullets.com. The 120,s presently their out of stock but they expect them in the first two weeks of 1/2017.
I,m going to keep cking back so I can purchase some.

Later mate, I hope you do not mine me using the gesture mate because I have always loved this conversation of frienship when I hear it.

TS

Elvis

ok look at this projectile as it was DESIGNED/INTENDED to be looked at,a little like the 150grn speer btsp was 20+ years ago and the various Amaxs are now....... its a super soft/thin jacket around a soft core.... not quite a varmit softness,but inbetween so when it hits something a LONGER RANGE/SLOWER SPEED it will do its thing and not just pencil through.....
look at thread on spin rates and similar thing is mentioned,its horses for corses. you need to match you projectile weight and type to the game you are intending to shoot and in this case the range you intend to be shooting.
use any of the above 3 at close range/high speed and you can expect to get bullet blow up /shallow cratering wounds/a plurry big shallow bloody mess with chance of game moving off wounded.....close up,place any of the 3 in high neck,head or tucked into crease of foreleg with animal quartering away from you and its lights out nursey quick smartly.
out further (300yards plus) they will behave themselves and hold together and mushroom to some extent with fragmantation still a real possibility,as someone said od the 205grn .308 Amax...205 grns of wee bits and pieces of projectile boring through is still 205grns.

lots of guys over here swear by this type of load for long range work,the whole area is controversial,you need to be 150% up with the play,you need accurate rangefinder,need to know altitude,need to read wind EXTREMELY WELL,need a chronygraph or at least know speed your projectile is going,you need to have load that is at worst 1/2" at 100 yards and ideally 1/4" (I cant get much better than 1" so are limited to 400yards ethically/morally)
and last but certainly not least ..you need to know how to shoot plurry well
IF and WHEN you have ticked all those boxes,you need range time to proove you can do it...stick a 3ltr plastic bottle...or a large coca cola bottle filled with water out at 500yards and see how confident you are..
if you want to see how its done go to
www.balistics research and scroll down to bottom of main page and watch a video or 4

novel ended

TwoSeventy

I completely agree to what your telling me and also I appreciate your suggestions for long range shooting. When I first saw this Bullet design by Nosler, I had no realization that it was designed as a 400 yd. plus shooter.
Later on after I purchased two 100 ct Boxes of these bullets,, I went into the hunting reviews on their performance and most hunters were complaining about pedal break off,s in game. It was then I realized that the condition of working down to 1300 fps. as Nosler said meant to me right away what the problem was.
This design is for the long range antelope people or open range big game.
Where I live that open type terrain is extremely rare.
So I discontinued re-loading them and went back to the 150 and 140 grain Partitions. I also got a tip from Slimjim to try the 120 MKZ bullet from Cavitybackbullets.com but their presently all sold out.They expect a new shipment in the first 2 weeks of this January. Slimjim also told me that he DRT an Elk with the 105 MKZ so the 120 should be better yet. The 120 MKZ better yet comment made me chuckle to myself after I typed this comment. You cannot do any better than a Big Game DRT.They work like broadheads and cause extensive heavy bleeding on game.
Later,
TS

Vince

TwoSeventy wrote:

...Later mate, I hope you do not mine me using the gesture mate because I have always loved this conversation of frienship when I hear it.

TS

TwoSeventy, you are more than welcome to use the term "mate". It is a greeting that is used all the time down here in Australia and is a sign of friendship and mateship. We are all mates here, regardless of our background or ethnicity, something of which makes me feel very proud.

There is another term that we used to hear all the time, but it isn't heard as often these days and that is "bastard". I'm what I classify as a decent bastard or a good old bastard (in fact I belong to the Australasian Order of Old Bastards, an organisation that is basically a charity, funny enough started by some Aussies and Yanks towards the end of WW II).

TwoSeventy

We,ll Vince,
Thanks you for being a good mate to know member here on this forum Ha Ha, if you called somebody a bastard over here in a Pub, you could find yourself on the bar room floor.
Up here right now outside my den window, the temp. is 24 deg,s F. and clear skies. Must be much warmer now in Australia where you are. We enjoy the tv series the mate that raises the Kangaroo,s up from babies and gives them love and a good home. Now we see he has got some Camel,s.
Do you have to be careful mate when doing a hunt because of the Brown snakes or other crawling things. Over here now and then they have a tv documentary series,s on Australia most dangerious things.
And swimming, that very small jelly fish that folks get stung by,
wow, that must really hurt. Is this the block jelly fish or is my terminology wrong here.Anyways mate got wandering here with my questions. Catch you later on Vince,
TS

eeyouelder · Member Joined: Jan 26, 2005 Posts: 123 Location: Quebec

Would that be close to Potsdam?

Vince

TwoSeventy wrote:

...Do you have to be careful mate when doing a hunt because of the Brown snakes or other crawling things. Over here now and then they have a tv documentary series,s on Australia most dangerious things.
And swimming, that very small jelly fish that folks get stung by,
wow, that must really hurt. Is this the block jelly fish or is my terminology wrong here.Anyways mate got wandering here with my questions.

Snakes...yep, always keep an eye out for them mate, but more often than not they see you way before you see them and they will usually avoid you...usually. Whichever way it goes, unless you actually tread on one you generally don't have any problems with them. If you want to see just how dangerous our snakes are, Google Australian Snakes or the most deadly snakes in the world...I think we have seven or eight of the top 10.

As for Marine Stingers...oh yeah, you need to be extremely careful during the summer months in the Far North. The two main ones to watch out for are the Box Jellyfish and the Iruganji...both give an extremely painful and lethal sting. We also get lots or Portuguese Man 'O War, or more commonly called, Blue Bottles, during summer, but although they are very painful stings, they are not deadly.

Elvis

145grn ELDX well slimjim???? havent seen much from you as of late...lots of guys over here are having great results with these...and just seen some photos of deer shot with hammer hunter projectiles from USA WOW is all I can say about terminal performance or perforations if you prefer,both fit.

slimjim

Elvis, I have a box of 145 ELDX but my 129 LRXs have been doing so well I haven't switched over yet. Plus I've been too busy reloading for my son's new .30-06, my 6.8 spc, and 224 Valkyrie. The 6.8 and Valkyrie have been schwacking hogs and coyotes with authority. Last year I dispatched 69 hogs and 22 coyotes. All very sad because I lost my lease and will have to look elsewhere to satisfy my night hunting addiction.

Elvis

the hammer hunters look devistating to say the least Mate.... cant say I have seen photos showing that much damage from any mono ever before. will see if can link in thread for you to see for yourself. I trust completely the authenticity of photo taker,he is a straight up guy with nothing to gain by telling windies,he shoots a couple of deer a week and carries them out then gives the meat away to local charity soup kitchen to feed the less fortunate...AND he isnt no spring chicken either.

Elvis

www.nzhuntingandshooti...age-80795/

here you go SlimJim...now if only I could find that graph a clever fella made up showing energy differences..........

slimjim

Elvis, I have been having similar success with other monolithic bullets. CavityBackBullets.com MKZ series is one and they are from Montana also. The expand to a very large diameter with 3 petals that make a tri-star wound channel. I've used them on elk, deer, hogs, and coyotes with my 6.8mm SPC. The .224 cal 70 grain MKZ when impacting at a high-enough energy state also lose their petals like the Hammer bullets causing similar trauma on hogs and coyotes. I was also using Nosler's 55 grain E-Tip in my Valkyrie at 3,400 fps which will cause its 4 petals to separate in close. Makes for an effective hog plus deer bullet and just over pressurizes the heck out of coyotes I've shot, blowing the insides out both ends and leaving trails of vapor/mist from the entrance/exit wounds.