Mornin' Bossman! Spilled the coffee dodgin' switches 'n stuff! Gonna be late to the barn! Yer on yer own on this one!

EYEEEEEEEEEE!

I think I'm with Vince on this one, "an answer looking for a non-existent problem." But I also believe that if someone thinks it helps it might, by giving them more confidence in their loads. Personally I'll stick with what I've got for crimping.

Bushy, you bring up an interesting point about straight cases, particularly for automatics. Most head space on the case mouth. In order to get the bullet the same distance from the lands the cases have to be the same length. The OAL can be exactly the same but, if the cases are different lengths, the bullet will be placed differently in the chamber. For revolvers, or straight cased rifles, if the length is different the crimp will be different too. Nothing new here, I'm just offering a refresher.

With the Bushmaster on this one. Trim to same length, set your die and use the same pressure and crimps should be pretty uniform. The "Click" type wrench shown uses a small ball held down by a spring which keeps the bottom and top half of the wrench inline. When the spring tension is overcome by the strain it causes the wrench to slip or "click". Turning down the handle on the shaft increases spring tension. Changes in temperature, the speed at which the handle is pulled and wear in the mechanism all affect the accuracy of the wrench. This matters very little if you are torquing down a flywheel or lug nuts but probably crimping a soft brass lip onto an relatively soft bullet requires tighter tolerances.

Now if someone came up with a spring loaded crimping die patterned on the ones use in factories to crimp caps on those tiny perfume spray bottles etc. then I think that may be a product with a market.

By the way: my Lyman single stage goes over the top, meaning the case goes up till maximum and then goes down again (a little bit). This way I would get the tension at the end of the stroke and that's not at the highest point.
And Lee gives a calculation somewhere to indicate the advantages of using their factory crimp. I have to agree: there is more difference in extracting forces when no crimp is applied than when you give a crimp.

Bushy yes I reload 32h&r magnum and also 6 rifle calibers and no I'm not interested in the darned thing, I just thought someone on here might find it useful. Gawd! Well the video sounds pretty convincing and if you watch the video on the web site, it gives more technical instruction and various reasons to argue the point.

You'd think I was tryin to sell stuff, when I find something interesting, more beer please... I appreciate your candid remarks (not) but I'm not tryin to convince anybody of anything.

It is way too expensive I'd say, unless your anal about crimping, and then I think I'd come up with a do-it-yourself cheaper set-up....I said more BEER!

I haven't used a click stop, but I've used a beam scale torque wrench. I took my air compressor apart, got a rebuild kit and rebuilt the....thing-a-ma-jig whatch-a-ma-call-it thingy in there and it works great.

So there

Smarty Pantz

Suz

Stay Calm Suzi:

Ohhhhh....I want one of them vehiclulars OV1....I like it, a real lot mate.

Suz...the video, and concept, was interesting mate, but I have to agree with Bushy...keep your cases to the same length and use a consistent stroke on the press operating lever and you have the battle won mate.

Apart from all the above, thanks for the link mate...it has generated good discussion and introduced me to something I would never have thought of doing.

Cheers, Vince

Thanks for the link Suz very interesting but I will continue to crimp for my levers the way I have in the past. I know you weren't trying to sell anything and it was info only. Thanks

Is stovepipe still hanging on to the top rung of the ladder????????

OMG a Beerbulance!!! Kinda lame video but the concept is wonderful. It needs a roof-rack full of switches fer sher. If I vary the length and thickness of each switch I'll have one for every situation. I normally make them by using a razor blade, a pocket knife, a bowie knife, an ax and a chain saw.

I usually start by using the chain saw to get them off the tree, then switch to the ax to trim off the little stems and pokey small branches. Next comes the bowie knife cause it's easier to trim off the bark with a bigger blade, then I switch over to the pocket knife to trim off the cadmium layer, you know, the white stuff under the bark. Lastly I use the razor blade, as a scraper to level out the stick and make a smooth surface.

There's lots of variables in doing so many steps to get the final switch to my specs. One bad move with chain saw and we're done. Dig the bowie knife in too far and it's over. The pocket knife has to be at a precise angle to get that cadmium layer just right and the razor blade knows how to cut a face (or leg) without even knowing it.

From now on I'm going to use good ole harness grade leather belts, so there. Call me old fashioned, call me old school, I don't care. It's what I'm used to anyway and I really don't like to change the way I do things, for better or for worse. Who needs more time on their hands anyway. Not me, I'm here for the duration and my family is long lived, so I gots the time.

Gotta start with a cow, don't know what other animal works better. I could shoot it first, it would be the humane thing to do. Forget about callin the farmer first, it's the hunt that gets me goin. Next I'll need to gut it and skin it. Lots of dinners and lunches in the meat so of course I'll have to butcher, cut and wrap and freeze the meat. Use the hoofs and bones for dog chewies and then I can get started on tanning the leather. Soak it, scrape it, stretch it, trim it, tan it. Hair off of course then I can cut it into strips. I think a width should be proportional to the buttocks width myself. Some thin, some fat, some wide and some narrow, for each his own, so to say. Sounds like a whoopin good time! Or I could just go and buy a belt.....

Suz

Need a taller ladder.........

Suzy,
The wide belts make lots of noise but don't really hurt much - the skinny ones don't make much noise but do a good job of raising welts. I think a four foot "split-tail" would work for most jobs though, It makes a nice "crack" and can leave a red mark, a welt, or a streak of blood from the split skin depending on the mood of the person at the handle end.

Oh sh1te guys....we'uns is in trouble...not sure a taller ladder will do the job Bushy...might have to look at a hot air balloon, although we will have to come down some time to refill the gas bottle.



Cheers, Vince

Not to mention the beer...

Yup....I think we might have to work out a resupply method...get someone to act as a decoy fer us.

Cheers, Vince

PaulS wrote:

Suzy, The wide belts make lots of noise but don't really hurt much - the skinny ones don't make much noise but do a good job of raising welts. I think a four foot "split-tail" would work for most jobs though, It makes a nice "crack" and can leave a red mark, a welt, or a streak of blood from the split skin depending on the mood of the person at the handle end.

Paul do you really know what you've done!!!!!!!!!!!!!??????????????? I fear for Bushy and Vince's backsides, cause they are prone to say'n things they will likely regret......!!! Suz .... Bushy and Vince are my buddy's and I would really appreciate you excusing them when it comes to manners cause I don't know what they learn't in their younger daze but they are getting up in age and both may have forgot. There backsides are likely tender from old age so would you please use a wider belt for them????????

If'n ya need a decoy fellas let me know ............. K