Pumpkinslinger wrote:

I'd read long ago, when I was looking at my first AR, about the "forward assist" idea. The author of that book said something to the effect of "If a round won't chamber do you really want to try to force it?"

Pkslinger, I agree. Using the forward assist seems to just get you into more trouble. I started building my uppers without that feature.

dissolve the lead..the rod will pop out powder will do same and then you can put longer stronger one piece rod in and tap the case out from inside.

thinking further along the same lines...brass is way softer than steel. once powder is gone the rest will be easy..

I think everyone is assuming that the bullet (projectile) is a cast boollit Slim. What is it mate, cast or jacketed?

If it is cast, it shouldn't be too difficult to "melt" the boollit using chemicals as described by others...assuming said chemicals don't trash your barrel in the process. (Ammonia will attack copper, but it will take quite some time to work.)

If it is a jacketed bullet, then that is a whole new ball game mate. I am sure that using the "nut on a threaded end of the rod" will, if nothing else, separate the rod and bullet, then you can sit back and think about how to remove the stuck round. The rim of the case should be the weakest part, maybe you can TAP the cocking lever with sufficient force to pull the extractor clear of the base of the round, allowing you to at least remove the bolt and get at the back of the round.

I really am surprised that the rod didn't push and release the round out of the chamber though. Maybe you can find a SAFE way of increasing the force applied to the end of the rod (hit it HARDER) to push everything rearward. You say the rod is now bent...it will only bend so far because of the diameter of the bore, so it should still try to move rearward. Is there a way you could contain a detonation (if it occurred)? If you could get the whole shebang into a press and apply downwards pressure to the rod, or drop a heavy weight onto the end of the rod, I think you will have a win mate.

Overriding factor is SAFETY SAFETY SAFETY...make sure you, and anybody else, is in a safe position to avoid injury in case the worst scenario happens.

If nothing else will work, and you are prepared to "write off" the barrel, them I would think a power hacksaw through the barrel, just behind where the base of the bullet would be, would allow you to at least make things safe for disposal.

Vince wrote:

I think everyone is assuming that the bullet (projectile) is a cast boollit Slim. What is it mate, cast or jacketed?

Jacketed bullet – 77gr Sierra Match King - .223 is too high a velocity to not use lead bullets.

Vince wrote:

The rim of the case should be the weakest part, maybe you can TAP the cocking lever with sufficient force to pull the extractor clear of the base of the round, allowing you to at least remove the bolt and get at the back of the round.

The bolt has been removed. By removing both pins, the upper can be moved forward and clear the bolt (not in battery) from the lower. Removing the bolt actually took the rim off the case where the extractor was in contact.

Vince wrote:

I really am surprised that the rod didn't push and release the round out of the chamber though.

Here is what I is happening, the bullet pushes into the powder stack and the compression of the powder is absorbing some of the impact energy. Plus the compression of the powder can only exert more pressure on the brass case walls which are already friction stuck to the chamber. I think a rod will only tap out a live round if it is lightly stuck in the chamber.

Vince wrote:

Is there a way you could contain a detonation (if it occurred)?

No

Vince wrote:

If nothing else will work, and you are prepared to "write off" the barrel, them I would think a power hacksaw through the barrel, just behind where the base of the bullet would be, would allow you to at least make things safe for disposal.

If I cannot ignite the primer, I think the safest thing to do would be to drop it in the deep end of a lake.

Keep ththe thoughts coming.

Hm...back to the drawing board...put's thinking cap back on, gears and cogs clicking and whirring again.

"...gears and cogs clicking and whirring again."

Wife running from the back door...

I think you should call your local bomb squad and tell them what you've got, they might have a suggestion or two. Those guys at least would be able to contain a just-in-case "problem" and it might be something fun for them to stew over.


Suz

not that is a good idea Suz....

Hmm, yes a good idea, Suz. I'll have to explore that one. Thanks.

OK... Use the rig you made to hold the barrel vertical, breech up, out in a wide open area. Use some wire and tape to place a cheap fresnel lens where it will focus the sun onto the primer and cook it off. With the barrel placed breech up any fragments will go up. You'll still have stuff stuck in the barrel but maybe then you can safely drive it out.

Thanks, Pkslinger. +1 for the test fixture. However, I think a 40gr .22 LR bullet hitting the face block of the make-shift firing pin will be a bit faster than waiting for the sun to set the primer off.

The bullet has been hammered on with a steel rod, and then soaked in penetrating oil. I'm thinking that the powder and primer stand a good chance of being inert. Not that I would want to bet a limb on that assumption. Take that contraption that you built to hold the barrel, mount it to a drill press and see if you can drill out the primer from a safe distance. If that would work, you could use an RCBS stuck case remover (every seasoned reloader has had to buy one of those) to pull out the case.

By the way, how much did you pay for that barrel? and have you spent ten times as much in time and effort yet? That is my requirement before I'll give up on a project like that.

Loke, it will be interesting to see if the oil has gotten inside and done anything. I've read too often that oil, WD40, etc. is not a reliable method for inerting a primer. I've practiced trying to drill down the side of the primer and pry it out so I could use a stuck case remover like you suggest. However, I had a live one go off on my so I'm not going to do that until I know the primer has been fired. Then I can use the case remover.

how about setting it verticle with muzzle up and dropping weight onto rod (tie string onto it and have it up and over something so you can lift and drop)
yes the powder could get more compact and fire..but you are out of the way and case can bugger off out the bottom..one way or the other