Bushy made primer pocket cleaner that could clean plenty of cases in very short time.
Its coming out of a mower engine if memory serves..

UT trout: you are going to find many different opinions about reloading and they all work. Just keep safety in mind when looking at other's tips. BTW: I have no problems with what previous posters have said.

I seldom clean primer pockets if ever. I do most of my load work off a dillon 650 and it would require to much work IMNO with that press. I do have a process to trim the cases periodically which is necessary whereby I FL lresize/deprime, prime, trim, reexpand the neck in one process on the dillon. I then throw them into the corn cob media and shake it for a while to remove the lube. I tumble out the media and deburr the cases. All that is left is to drop powder and seat the bullet. MY point is I tumble the cases with the primers installed. I know for a fact that I probably have had a piece of corn cob media stuck in the flash hole doing this in this manner. I've never seen an issue with this either because I always felt it would just get blown out. Given this info I doubt debris left in the flash hole would ever cause a problem and I leave this debris in there too. Some may have a problem with corn cob media left in a flash hole I have respect for those that do. I'm only saying this to make the point that IMHO a little of the naturally occurring flash hole debris should never be an issue.

I place my cases on a cookie sheet with all the cases laying down with the base resting against one side of the cookie sheet. I then use dillon spray lube spraying from the case mouth side spraying downwards towards the cases at about a 45 degree about 12" away. This way a little lube gets into the case mouth. I've also done it without any lube but you need a real hard and smooth expander. I went back to lube because the press moves smoother and I feel I distort the cases less.

I see a bit of confusion here. The OP was talking about rifle cases not pistol. Neck sizing is not expanding but rather contracting the diameter of the neck opening to provide tension for the bullet. The neck is squeezed down against a slightly undersized mandril. There is some spring back from the squeezing and there is a slight clearance left between the inside neck diameter and the mandril. This means there is virtually no friction when the case is withdrawn from the neck sizing die. I use Lee collet neck sizing dies specifically because they do not require any case lubrication.



Neck sizing dies should only be used for cases fired in the rifle in which they will be used again. Full length resize all other brass even if from a rifle of the same model and year. Always measure and trim as necessary before neck sizing.

Mac, I don't think anyone was referring to pistol cartridges !!! (please correct me if I've missed something)

When using standard RCBS and Redding type dies the neck of a rifle cartridge is undersized then expanded back out to the bullet diameter by means of a ball expander as the case is withdrawn from the die.

If the use of a Dillon 650 added to any confusion it should be noted that the 550, 650, and 1050 load both pistol and rifle cartridges. The Square Deal B is the only press Dillon sells that is dedicated to pistol.

thankyou chambered you beat me to it on the expander ball thingymebobby!
I find the expanding bit can be quite harsh if no lube is used.

My mistake. Thanks for setting me right. It was the reference to the 650 that threw me off.

I agree with MacD/Chambered up to the point where you say you can get away with just neck sizing for a cartridge that will be used in the gun that it was fired in. With the 300WSM fired in the Bennelli R-1 you have to full length resize the cases period. I was shown the error of my ways with trying anything else with the R-1s. The cartridge will always just about chamber and then stick. IMO it is what it is. The other thing that I have discovered is Royal Case and Die Lube. EXCELLENT product! I am impressed with it.

ITD,
if the cartridge comes out of the chamber easily after you fire it then it should go back in just as easily. Try it without sizing and see if the fired case goes into your chamber. If it does then after proper neck sizing see if it will still chamber. If not then there is something wrong with the sizing process - you may be pushing or pulling the shoulder when you neck-size.
I only size about 3/4 of the neck length - leaving som of it expanded to center it in the chamber.

You make a good point Paul and I should have qualified my advice is for full length resizing for the Bennelli R-1 rifle.
Usually I leave about a 1/16 to 3/32" space between the full upward travel of the ram and the die for bolt actions etc but I have found that the R-1 needs to have the ram under some spring when you are resizing for it. This advice came from other friends who reload for 300WSM and also from RCBS as the R-1 has a tight chamber usually. With the tikka T3 and Remington 700, I have found they both are more forgiving with reloading their own fired cases.

could also be something like my .270, which hates neck sized rounds, I ve been told the chamber MAY be slightly off centre. I partial length resize as per the instructions on the dies and have never had a issue since.

I full length size my .243 every time I reload. I know that this puts a little extra strain on the case, and probably shortens case life a little, but it's my understanding that overbore rounds need that FLS to maintain dimensions. Only problem I find is a little bit of "growth because of the FLS.

Now with my 30.30 I only neck size, and then only about 3/4 of the way down the neck. Used to have problems with slight bulging of the shoulder, but since backing off the sizer I've had no problems at all. I simply smoked the neck and then adjusted the neck size die (and the FLS in case I ever need it) till it only sizes as far as I want it to go down the neck.

Cheers, Vince

Vince:

Do you crimp when you only 3/4 neck size?

You could always stress relieve the necks also to extend case life.

I have never crimped my rifle rounds since just after I tested my first reloads some 40 years ago. I got better groups without the crimp and bullets have never moved uner the recoil with my 3006 or the 358 win.
it has never been an issue. I feel that crimping adds one more variable into the process of finding accuracy - one that is not necessary for me.
That is not to say that it might be necessary for another gun but right now I get 1/2 MOA or better accuracy with my rifles without the crimp on all my rifles.

I only crimp for my lever guns and never for any of my bolt action rifles, I've never found the need.