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Joined: May 25, 2005
Posts: 13377
Location: Brisbane AUSTRALIA

PostPosted: Fri Sep 19, 2008 2:32 am    Post subject: Re: LIGHTS FOR HUNTING Reply with quote

Elvis wrote:
man thats a heap of info. I use a $10 headlamp led 1/5 or 7 lit up at a time. why??? cause it was cheap (like me)and it works. also got a 9 led model $15 even brighter I use them to see where Im going.for game I use a 12volt spot light with 55w bulb it lasts for close to a hour on a 7amphr battery I carry two batteries and by the time they are flat so are my batteries and its time for heading home.this set up is great for shotgun ranges and will do out to 100yrd in clear ground.heres a tip for all you macpara moonbeamers. get a red lazer beam they are real cheap now only a couple of dollars. when you have the light hold the beam on the beast so your half blind mates can find it as they often cant see eyes that you can. if all else fails tell them to shoot the blo###y red spot... saves the sanity no end.

Elvis...that is a damn smart idea mate. In fact I am going to do exactly that...get myself a half decent laser pointer.

I don't know how many times one of my mates has got snarly because I didn't take the shot...didn't matter that I couldn't see the eye cause he was holding the spotlight. A laser pointer will solve that problem nicely.

Cheers, Vince

Cheers, Vince Cheers

Illegitimi non carborundum
(Never let the bastards grind you down)

Live simply. Love generously. Care deeply. Speak kindly. Leave the rest to God.

"Nulla Si Fa Senza Volonta."
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Posts: 98
Location: New York

PostPosted: Sun Oct 19, 2008 10:56 am    Post subject: Re: LIGHTS FOR HUNTING Reply with quote


Hi guys,
I have been using remote switches in my tactical lights that are mounted in rifles, shotguns, and bows, for quite a few years now.
The most effective of them are the ones with a direct connection to the solder pad that touch the battery (no spring), like the ones in the TACM III tactical lights.
The reason that they are more effective is that they don’t rob the system of any voltage (in the way of internal resistance) as do the ones with heavy springs.

Internal resistance is the name of the game, some of them, for example the TAC STAR pressure switch, can really make a bright lamp like the P-60, looks dim and murky, due to too much internal resistance in the design of the tail cap.


A good one that I have used for years in mounting lights on my friends’ bows and rifles, is the G&P tail cap with remote. Its design is quite good and the internal resistance is low, but it is not designed for pump shotguns as the cord is just straight and not curly.


A very good one that I discovered recently is the Aimshot curly cord remote, the spring is copper and quite light and it seems to have very low internal resistance.
I discovered the Aimshot in Cheaper Than Dirt catalogue and at a very good price ($14.97) and it has become my favorite.
I just used one in a Pelican M-6 tactical light and mounted it using a UTG Tri rail mount in an AK rifle, it does the job well.


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Location: New York

PostPosted: Tue Oct 28, 2008 12:31 pm    Post subject: Re: LIGHTS FOR HUNTING Reply with quote


There are now a number of aftermarket lamps for the popular series of Surefire lights.
They will fit the Surefires series: 6P, C, Z, D, G, and maybe others.

I just received a new one that claims 290 lumens and is called a Cree R-2 (it’s supposed to be even more powerful than the Cree Q-5).
I decided to do a shoot out with an assortment of lights that I have in the 200 plus lumens class. That way the members can see how they perform against each other.

Run time was not measured for lack of time and because I am running short on 123’s batteries. The bigger lights, namely the Surefire M-4 with the MN60 lamp (225 lumens for 60 minutes on four 123’s disposable batteries) and the Bear Cub from Black Bear Flashlights (220 lumens for 90 minutes on rechargeable Li Ion batteries) are big throwers and with them you can see clearly objects 120 and 150 yards away.

On the other hand the small reflectors of the Surefires G-2, Centurion 2 and Fenix T-1 are dispersing all those lumens close by, creating a great flood.
Those pocket lights will be great to use as tactical lights by law enforcement personnel, and especially good at clearing houses, while the Surefire M-4 and the Bear Cub will make great lights for car, truck and the open spaces.

The literature of the Fenix states that it’s good for 200 yards, it will probably make a reflective target like a stop sign glow at that distance, but it would hardly illuminate any other object. My perception from trials I made, is that this light as well as the others LED’s can’t be count to illuminate (poorly) objects beyond 60/70 yards.

In any case, a lamp upgrade if you own a Surefire pocket light, is a good idea as any of them are more powerful than the stock incandescent lamp of 65 lumens or the stock LED lamp of 80 lumens.

The lights as they appear in the picture are, from left to right:

Surefire M-4 MN60 lamp 225 lumens for 1 hour (running on four 123’s batteries)
Bear Cub 220 lumens for 90 minutes, rechargeable
Surefire G-2 in yellow. It is 65 lumens for one hour with the stock P-60 lamp
Surefire G-2 in black, Lumen Factory lamp incandescent of 160 lumens
Surefire G-2 in green, Cree Q-5 by Deal Xtreme, 200 lumens
Surefire Centurion 2 in Jungle Camo, 290 lumens (claimed) with the Cree R-2 lamp
Fenix T-1, 225 lumens using a Cree Q-5 lamp

And now the pictures, target is 20 yards away, watch also the amount of side spill as well as the throw.








One word of caution with high intensity LED lights: most are not thermally regulated and they will suffer from their own heat if used for an extended period. They will get very hot and the tint will change. Short use of 5 minutes or less is recommended, especially in lights like the G-2 that has a plastic body and head.

All metal flashlights like the Surefire 6P are better at dissipating the heat, and in them a few more minutes of constant use can be achieved before the heat will damage the module.
The big heavy head of the Fenix acts as a heat sink, and this light can manage to run much longer without the heat affecting the module.

Besides, the Fenix has a second setting that will run the light at 60 lumens for 10 hours.
So, if you already have a Surefire you want to upgrade, the aftermarkets lamps are great.
If you need a new light look at the Fenix line.

If you need a truck, open spaces light, the Bear Cub is a great value as it is rechargeable and very bright as well as a 150 yards thrower.

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 15, 2009 1:26 pm    Post subject: Re: LIGHTS FOR HUNTING Reply with quote


For the last two months, I have been using one of the Terralux Lightstar 220 lumens flashlights, which runs on two AA batteries.
This light has two settings on the click-tail cap; the first setting clicks on the light and emits 220 lumens for 1.5 hours.
The second setting of 100 lumens for 6 hours is accessed by softly pressing the rubber button switch.

The LED is a Cree RXE Q-4 and is controlled by a microprocessor for a constant light output. When battery juice is running low, the LED will flicker to let you know that is time for new batteries.
The unit comes with two Energizer AA batteries, a lanyard and a soft nylon holster. At an even six inches long, the light is quite portable and also features a clip to attach it to your belt or waistband.

It is very similar to the popular 3 watt 80 lumens Ray-O-Vac Sportsman Xtreme (but is slightly longer as the click tail cap needs more room for the mechanism), and the head is smaller with a small orange peel reflector.

Due to the small reflector the beam throws quite a flood despite the 220 lumens figure. Small reflectors don’t really have much throw no matter how many lumens you make the light puts out. However, it is quite adequate for most chores inside a house and practical, too, for walking the dog or a walk in the woods.



The really nice thing about these lights are that they are very inexpensive to feed as they use common AA batteries. As I use rechargeable AA batteries in all my lights, it is even more inexpensive to use.
The dark green anodized body is quite resistant to scratches as the light is still like new even after a couple months of sharing my pocket with keys and coins.

Cost of the light varies depending where you buy it, but it is around $35 to $40 USD; your best bet is to Google it to see who has a special on it.
I like this light to the point of recommending it to anybody that is looking for a light with these characteristics. The light is as good as the Ray-O-Vac Sportsman with the added power of the 220 lumen setting.

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 23, 2009 11:07 pm    Post subject: Re: LIGHTS FOR HUNTING Reply with quote


A lumen is not a lumen when somebody intends to throw a big bunch of them out of a small reflector the size of a dime or nickel. At least it seems to be that way.

It used to be easy to tell the power of a light by the lumens figure, not anymore. You could be an experience user of lights, say a policeman that had used for years a 200 lumens Magchager and is well acquainted with its capabilities. Now he reads about this small light the size of a thumb that also outputs 200 lumens and is all excited to get the new marvel.

He does and is promptly disappointed because the small light seems to throw a good amount of light, but all close by, and is nothing that can compare with his duty Magcharger that can illuminate objects at 100 yards.

Besides emitters in the 200 lumens bracket can kill themselves with the heat that they produce when they are used in small lights with poor heat sinking. It is mostly a novelty thing and it should be used with caution. Some of them come in lights with multiple settings, and that is fine when the literature advice you to use the 200 lumens sparingly, and you follow that advice.

To illustrate the point, here are a couple of pictures of beam shots at 20 yards, you can clearly see the superiority of the Bear Cub (reflector size 2”) over the Lightstar 220, (reflector the size of a dime) even when both lights are rated at 220 lumens.



Some manufacturers wishing to quote big numbers are now putting clusters of these small reflectors on duty size flashlights. Mind you these clusters that are from three to four are still all small reflectors with limited throw.

So, somebody putting a cluster of four reflectors in a big head can claim 800 lumens, but you know better now, knowing that those 200 lumens for each reflector are not really behaving like real lumens!

Unfortunately I don’t have one of those lights to prove the point. But I can get my own cluster of lights in the 200 lumens bracket, and demonstrate by picture what can you expect.

I have here two of the Lightstar220 lumens, plus a Fenix P3D of 205 lumens and an Ultra Fire with Rebel emitter of 200 lumens, all of which together in a cluster will throw the figure of 845 lumens.

The opposite number is a Black Bear 720 lumens flashlight, a light that is 10” long and weights 24 oz. and uses a 2” reflector that can throw several hundred of yards with a strong white light.


The distance for both beam shots is in this case 35 yards to the target (The no trespassing sign tacked in the tree). The camera is 20 yards from the target.



Observe how the beam of the 720 lumens light travels beyond the range of the cluster lights, illuminating objects that the cluster lights are not capable of showing.
So, if you are in the market for a new light, this use of small reflectors in clusters to boost lumens figures is something you should be aware off.


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 27, 2009 10:20 am    Post subject: Re: LIGHTS FOR HUNTING Reply with quote


YOU, Sir, are a true FLASHAHOLIC! Laughing (That's a compliment, in case somebody doesn't get it.)

Laser pointers are a mixed blessing. Just this week, we had a fellow arrested for lighting up a landing air liner with his, and they are looking for the pilgrim who hit a National Guard Apache with one, as it was landing.

It is a Federal crime to do so. Soooo, be wise, and don't do it!

Your usual flashlight would not do that. Somehow, the inverse square law doesn't apply to lasers, because both of the aircraft were more than 1/4 mile from the source, and the pilots say the laser lit up their cockpits.

And we have kids who seem to get a real thrill out of using one of the devices on the freeway. Shocked

I know, shades of Tom Clancy, and Hollywierd. One episode of CSI: Miami had a jet that was caused to crash by a laser, which apparently blinded and/or disoriented the pilot. Could it happen?

In this day and age, perception IS reality, which is why we now have the law, so be careful, be vewwy, vewwy careful! NoNo

An OHM, what's an Ohm? An Ohm is an English 'ouse! Very Happy

With apologies to Louie Prima and Keely Smith, Who did the best rendition:

That old Black Maglite has me in its spell,
That old Black Maglite that shines so well...
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 27, 2009 11:49 am    Post subject: Re: LIGHTS FOR HUNTING Reply with quote

It is illegal in NC to use a laser, or other lights, for hunting. "Red dot" sights are legal because they don't project a beam.


"I ain't no better than anyone else, and there ain't no one better than me!" Ma Kettle

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 03, 2009 11:23 am    Post subject: Re: LIGHTS FOR HUNTING Reply with quote


As you may know the Borealis 1050 lumens flashlight is the most powerful military/police flashlight in use today.
The Borealis will make 1050 lumens for 50 minutes on rechargeable batteries. Now a new bulb is available which will run the light for 75 minutes with a drop of only 300 lumens.

Lights in use by police today are the Magcharger, the Stingers, the SL 20 up to 200 lumens, the Ultra Stinger-295 lumens, the Pelican 7060-135 lumens, and the Fenix TK series up to 240 lumens.
Military forces use a variety of Surefires as weapon lights with 120 lumens and hand held like the Surefire M-4, 350 lumens and the Surefire M-6 at 500 lumens.

So, the above statement of the Borealis been the most powerful is not an exaggeration, many are been used daily by police and many are doing tour of duty in Afghanistan and Iraq.

What the new bulb does is extend the run time to 75 minutes without reducing drastically the output.

As no other duty flashlight with the same lumens is available, I decided to conduct a shoot out against a big two million candlepower spotlight, the one at hand was an almost new Brikmann Q beam Max million II (two million candlepower) with a reflector of five inches wide and a big bulb of 75 watt.

All this in competition to a bean sized 30 watt bulb and two inch reflector of the Borealis.



This particular Borealis has a Light Stippled reflector, a reflector designed to give a good balance between flood and throw, but given the semi custom character of the Borealis three other reflectors are available, smooth for maximum throw, orange peel for just a little less throw but more flood (also called side spill) and a medium stippled reflector designed for a big flood but with the range limited to 100 yards.

As the night was bitterly cold I decided to take the pictures and shoot the beams right out of my second story kitchen window, with the short tripod legs resting in the kitchen sink.
The target is the white and blue cabana which is the second building in the picture after the fence.

The target is 74 yards from my window, with back trees as much as 85 yards (they are still visible with both lights).
Due to the big reflector in the spot light, the beam is concentrated in the center of the picture and illumination from the side spill is not as great as it is with the Borealis 750 lumens bulb.

Observe both pictures and you will see more area illuminated by the Borealis 750 lumens bulb, than is illuminated by the two million candlepower spotlight.
Still the intensity of both beams is similar at the center of the target area.



In conclusion the new Borealis bulb of 750 lumens is worthy for those that will want a run time of 75 minutes. Even after loosing 300 lumens the Borealis still is the most powerful flashlight used by the police and the military.

The light can be ordered with the 1050 lumens bulb installed and the spare as the 750 lumens or vice-versa. You can also order the reflector most appropriate for you work, the only light in the Industry that offers you a choice of four reflectors.


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 07, 2009 5:10 am    Post subject: Re: LIGHTS FOR HUNTING Reply with quote

Pumpkinslinger wrote:
It is illegal in NC to use a laser, or other lights, for hunting. "Red dot" sights are legal because they don't project a beam.

I have never been impressed by laser for hunting, the beam will stop in the first leaf it touched, besides unless very close the laser dot will get lost in the black deep fur of a bear.

Here in N.Y. lights are illegal for hunting deer and bear, however we can use them at night for coyotes, raccoons, foxes etc.

The South states have a long tradition of hunting raccoon with dogs and lights.

In Texas it is legal to go pig hunting with lights.
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 04, 2010 11:44 am    Post subject: Re: LIGHTS FOR HUNTING Reply with quote


Last edited by watchmaker on Thu Mar 18, 2010 6:22 am; edited 1 time in total
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 06, 2010 2:31 pm    Post subject: Re: LIGHTS FOR HUNTING Reply with quote


Not long ago to get magnum illumination out of a flashlight, I had to drop down the tube, six of the big D batteries on a Maglite 6 D size.
That the light weights three pounds one ounce and measures 19 ½ inches was just incidental to the use if I wanted to get a really good, powerful beam.

Later Surefire come up with small lights that could take two and three or four small but powerful 123’s camera batteries, some of those lights, come up and surpass the 181 lumens of the big Maglite 6 D.
I am thinking now of the specialty tactical light than Surefire have as the M-4 that uses four of the 123 batteries for 225 lumens for one hour run time. The M-4 was made famous by been used in the CSI Las Vegas series.
Incidentally the M-4 is not precisely inexpensive, costing $330 USD from Surefire or their dealers.

The only problem is that the little 3 volts batteries are quite expensive, and using four of them for one hour run time can cost you $8.00 for that hour.
And that is if you buy them at discount over the Internet, when purchased in the camera stores (such as Wal Mart) the little 3 volts batteries cost as much as $4 each.

So a light of the size of the Surefire M-4 (9 inches long) was highly desired if it could be made to run on rechargeable batteries, to avoid the big battery expense of the M-4.

Enter the Bear Cub, a nine inches light, with a 13 oz. weight that is rechargeable and uses Lithium Ion batteries.
This little light makes 220 lumens for 90 minutes of run time, and then recharges its two batteries with a fast charger that is included, in three and a half hours.
The Lithium Ion batteries can be recharged up to 1,000 times and when they eventually get depleted can be replaced with $30.



And here a couple of beam shots at 26 yards for comparison.



Yes the little rechargeable Bear Cub is characterized for an intense white light, and a run time of 90 minutes, all in a small size that can fit in any glove compartment or trench coat pocket.
Best Wishes

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 18, 2010 6:23 am    Post subject: Re: LIGHTS FOR HUNTING Reply with quote


Hi guys,
A member of another forum has this idea of boring the inside diameter of a Surefire 6P to accept a laptop computer Li Ion battery.
I did my own version and discover that I can get a 345 lumens lamp (LED new R-5) at close to two hours run time.

You can mount this baby in a 5.56 mm a 50 caliber or a shotgun, it will shrug recoil no matter what caliber you shoot.
How come?

The heavy spring on the lamp act as a shock absorber and prevent lamp battering by the battery. And been an LED is not filament to break down.

The special machined Surefire body is a part of the equation.
The Lamp is a new one by Thru Nite, it is the new Cree R-5 and output and incredible 345 lumens (well more than any Surefire weapon light)

This lamp is a flood/throw and is ideal to clear rooms with the AR.
For night hunting I am changing to a 300 lumens lamp that have a better throw (different reflector treatment) so those coyotes have to watch out.

The tail cap has a remote cable switch with pressure pad, so I can place it on the stock of my rifle or shotgun, under my thumb. Yes thumb pressure will activate the light.

Usually this type of light uses 123’s batteries, they go fast under the power of 345 lumens, so I opted for a long run time computer battery, rechargeable, that will last you close to 2 hours of run time.

Moreover, when I am unsure of how much battery juice is in the battery, I just pop it into the charger and you get a full charged battery, ideal if I practice much night shooting with my AR.
You cannot do that with 123’s primary batteries unless you are willing to dump expensive half used batteries.

Li Ion technology will provide extend use if I don’t use the light, an occasional full top charge every 5 months will keep the battery at full capacity.

I have used a crenellated bezel up front, but I am thinking to put a flat bezel as I think the crenellated is able to catch on brush,
I provided the light with a Weaver ring, but I am thinking to change it to some Quick detach lever mount like the Leupold style Weaver style for the AR, as I don’t want it on the rifle when hunting Whitetails during the day in the laurel tickets ( I hunt with a mini 30).
Yes the Weaver detaches quick but I will need a coin from my pocket.
So you can compare with any of my other beam shots from the past, I use the same camera setting for all beam shots.

This is the Quick Detach ring that I will use in my AR; it will fit the Picatinny or the Weaver bases.

I mounted a magazine picatinny mount in my home defense shotgun, so I will make another light for the Mossberg and I will have this one with a pressure tape curly cord switch, the curly cord have more reach than the straight 9” cable for mounting way out there under the barrel of the shotgun.

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 18, 2010 4:57 pm    Post subject: Re: LIGHTS FOR HUNTING Reply with quote

wtf Did you forget you already posted this !!!

Bushy, I think you should get need it !!! Very Happy

Ask as many people needed, sooner or later your question will be answered the way you want it answered !!!

A free people ought not only to be armed and disciplined, but they should have sufficient arms and ammunition to maintain a status of independence from any who might attempt to abuse them, which would include their own government.
~George Washington
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 18, 2010 8:17 pm    Post subject: Re: LIGHTS FOR HUNTING Reply with quote

chambered221 wrote:
Bushy, I think you should get need it !!! Very Happy

chambered, that is like asking him to give up his stereo or whatever it is for something new. For lights he still uses candles .......................... Laughing Hiding Laughing I just couldn't resist Evil Devil

A cruel truth is much more desirable than a really nice lie.
'Tis far better to walk alone than to follow a crowd or an a**hole going the wrong way.
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 10, 2010 6:03 am    Post subject: Re: LIGHTS FOR HUNTING Reply with quote

Hi guys,
I haven’t purchased any new light to test for this thread, rather I have been very busy building the Borealis 1150 lumens and a new weapon light based on the post above.

Actually it is also a flashlight, as the weapon light is based on the addition to the flashlight of a quick detach LEVER ring mount and an extra tail cap with the pressure pad remote switch.

Although at first I used the Surefire 6P host, I am now using a much thicker (inside diameter) Surefire clone that is even better in quality and material than the original project.

All the components I use are the best quality, the oversized battery is the best Lithium Ion in the market and produced 2 hours run time with the 350 lumens lamp.

And I have two lamps, (since September 2010) one is a straight 350 lumens (one level) and the other (used mostly in the flashlight) is a 5 level lamp, with 350/175/50 lumens plus strobe and SOS, this lamp will do 9 hours run time in the 50 lumens mode.

A charger is included with the conversion and the battery can be recharged 1,000 times, extra batteries are available.

The lamps are just amazing, due to a new reflector shape the throw is fantastic (making it great for hunters) at the same time the flood is still very good to clear rooms with an AR or pistol.
And the 350 lumens is the higher lumens obtainable in this size head.

No more wasting expensive 123’s batteries to feed this type of light
For example a Surefire 9P (pictured on left) will take three 123’s to run the P-95 lamp (200 lumens) for 20 minutes at a cost of $18 per hour.
The rechargeable battery will work for 2,000 hours in the 350 lumens mode before the battery is exhausted and need replacement (inexpensive replacement).

The lamp life is 50,000 hours, so you can do all the hunting you want or play all the war games with your AR that you want for your entire lifetime and never yet burn this lamp.

And the throw and brightness is just amazing, pictures with a regular camera will not do it justice, but here they are:

The 5 level lamp makes it more versatile when used in the flashlight, and the 350 lumens straight is great for using in the weapon light.

The weapon light has an all steel ring mount with quick LEVER detachment, and a pressure pad cable switch.
And the price for a Surefire weapon light is about $200 more than one of my rechargeable weapon light cost.
The light I offer is waterproof, recoil-proof, and rechargeable, as well as the better thrower in the market in this size head.

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