I also use BF, when I'm going to store the gun for more than a few weeks. (That very seldom happens during the summer months ). If I'm going to use the gun soon, I spray Remington Bore bright onto a bore snake and run it through the barrel a couple of times. For action lubing, I use Remington teflon spray.

Blaine

Any one ever used powdered graphite? I have a friend in Alaska that uses graphite in the winter months (which is most of the time, I might add)..

I have been using a product called EEZOX. It is synthetic, goes on wet and then drys. I have never had a gun freeze up in the 15 years or more that I've been using it.

www.eezox.info/truth.html

I've been using Militec and Slip 2000 as lubes. Both are good. both actually bond with the metal after application. They both make cleaning incredibly easy once they have been applied. It only takes me about 25 minutes (Vs. about an hr without) to completely clean an AR-15 after these lubes have been applied. These lubes allow you to shoot the rifle while wet without varnishing up as with CLP, WD 40 and non-synthetic oils. Only problem is that the Militec has to be heated to do the bonding. One other problem with Militec is that it can damage some rubber/plastic. A gunsmith buddy of mine said that he tried to reblue a shotgun that had militec applied and he could not get the blue to take until after he had sanblasted it several times. Says somthing about the bonding/rust prevention properties of this stuff.

Slip 2000 also makes a really great cleaner (725) that is water based. If you had told me 2 years ago that I'd be using a water based cleaner for my guns I would have told you that you were nuts. Only thing that I can say is that it is the best cleaner for carbon and lead that I have ever found.

BFCLP and no more , is all you need .. We used it in the Navy on all our small arms and 5" guns .. Love the stuff .. Keep a couple spray cans and a gallon jug as well ..
Jack

For many years i have been using Mobil 1 50W (the one with the red cap) and this.........

Never ever one problem and all of my friends as well i use them on all of our carry pistols, race guns, rifles, and other peoples guns too.

Lubrication on / in firearms is a major concern. Improper and or incorrect lubrication is a major conrtibution into failure to fire and/or operate. As an X Small Arms Instructor and Armory Officer (Enlisted with knowledge!) I can vouch for CLP being a great lubricant in most circumstances. CLP is a very poor lubricant in desert areas with very fine sand such as found in the Middle East. It had caused many failures due to its ability to attract and hold the very fine sand common in that area. This sand is almost like talcum powder and when it combines with the residual CLP it creates a paste that gums up a firearm. Much of this problem is also due to the individual soldier using too much and not wiping away the excess but still the residual ammount does hold this fine sand and requires constant attention.

Cold weather is also a very testing environment for lubricants, as many have learned too much will freeze up a firearm. This is why many new lubes have been developed for extreme cold, light ammounts of CLP work very well in cold environments.

I have begun to use a newer lubricant and can only state that my results have been great. I began using Militec and on internal parts so far it has surpassed CLP. I have even used it on an antique Grandfather Clock. This clock was made in 1856 and was a bear to lube due to the very small areas. I spoke with an appraiser/restorer and he stated that he had been using Militec for a while and had not ever seen a better lube for this application in his 50 years of working on clocks. With this in mind I cleaned my firearms and actually tested CLP & Militec in my freezer, while they both worked after being frozen the Militec lubed actions/bolts and trigger mechs appeared and felt as if they were better lubed. In the outdoors here it doesn't get all that cold so I can't really tell a diffrence.


www.militec-1.com

Do be cautious though with Militec, it will penetrate the steel and bluing will not take. I have not experienced any corrosion on a piece of cold rolled steel that I polished an area on and have had outside for the last 10 months that I treated as per Militec's instructions.

Flint54:

I've heard but never used the militec lubricant and was wondering if you know how it holds up in a hot and humid climate, along with high pressure and heat from competition and/or fast shooting? I'm really not worried on it's cold weather performance because i already have my trusty two but i would like to try it out.

It's been about 15 years now since i've started using Mobil 1 and T-9, because of having seen the degradation of other lubricants due to pressure, residual powders, and even something as simple as lint caused problems.

Heat will not cause Miltec to degrade. I have shot it in AR-15's rapid fire over a 3 day rifle course )1500 rounds) and never had a problem with it. It will not create varnish like standard non-synthetic oils when exposed to high temp. The AR-15's that I have used Miltec on actually seem to stay cooler, I think that this is probably due to the superior librication properties of the Miltec. Good stuff.

The Slip 2000 is also a good lube and it seems to have similar protection to the Militec, however, it is much thinner and will get into areas where Militec has a hard time. Guns seem to run about the same as with the Militec. The advantages of the Slip 2000 is that it won't eat rubber and it can be used as a cleaner in a pinch. Slip 2000 also penetrates metal and provides great rust resistance. A buddy of mine coated a piece of mild steel with Slip 2000 last fall and it sat out all winter and it still is rust free. Also good stuff. Slip 2000 has the best cleaner (725) that I have ever used. Check out their site at

[url=http://www.slip2000.com ]Slip 2000[/url]

As I stated in my previous post, I took a piece of cold rolled steel and polished a section of it. I then treated it as per the insturctions provided on the Militec site. I then gave it 2 additional treatments as if it was a firearm and was cleaned then shot again and again cleaned. Remember the company recommends to apply the lube when the steel is warm or to use a source of heat and warm the metal to no more than 150F. So far here in North Carolina @ 35 miles from the Atlantic coast, 80%+ humidity and many 90F+ days in the summer I have experienced no corrosion on the polished area. The area is a bit duller than highly polished steel but no actual corrosion.

Needless to say I am very pleased with the product, it may be a bit expensive but a little goes a very long way.

I also have 3 gallons of CLP left from my days in the Armory, we had to dispose of anything over 2 years of age, why, I have no idea. It lasts forever!

In normal conditions the big question is often how much oil is too much?
If you're too generous with the oil you run the risk if it running back down the barrel and into the action when you stand the rifle back up in your gun cabinet. That's death on a wood stock as it'll ultimately make your bedding area spongy and destroy the bedding over time. Best wishes.

Cal - Montreal

Another vote for Break Free. I bought my first bottle of the stuff when you had to write away to San-Bar Corp to get the stuff, and I've been using it ever since.
It's humid where I live, and I have zero rust problems with firearms rusting.
I know thru personal experience that Break Free will stay liquid at 19 below zero F- the rifle I used in that cold worked like it was a summer day at the range- and the inside of the bolt had Break Free on it, like the rest of the rifle did.
BTW, I sometimes forget to shake the bottle, too.

Welcome aboard Jack sit long and talk much

Little lube goes along way.

Up here in Wisconsin we sometimes have rain, and sometimes snow and freezing during the opening of the gun deer season (3rd week in November). I've gotten in the habit of using a little lub as possible although a silicone spray or cloth works great to prevent moisture causing problems.