Good advise here all round.

I would just like to add, that the rifle should have a medium weight barrel, not a heavy barrel and not a light buggy whip job. The barrel should be about 24 inches long. I would avoid the 20 inch barrel. I would stay away from the mountain rifle, as it is so light it will be unplesant in the recoil department.

Get a good quality, multi function scope, like a 4-12 or 4-16 power. A 56mm objective is OK but unnecessary, a 40 to 46mm will do just nicely. Bigger here is not better, but it is heavier. I like the Burris reticle, but others like the Leupold, just do not get a cheep scope for your new baby, treat her right with good glass. Done right, the pair will be together for life.

I have several 30-40 year old 700s that shoot sub half inch groups and a 1941 M-70 that still shoots sub half inch groups. So this is a purchase that should last you well into your senior years. If you can afford a Remington 700 Classic in 30-06 that is what I would buy. The Classic is just a beautiful rifle. No matter where you go, you are dressed for the occasion with the Classic.

By the way, most accuracy shops build guns with sub moa guarantees on only two actions, the 70 and the 700. So the new 700 should serve you well. Oh, on the trigger, most anyone can adjust a 700 trigger using the factory instructions.
Ed

I've decided to get the 700 CDL in 30.06, so guess I decided correctly, eh? I installed a new trigger on my glock a while ago...it was pretty easy, so maybe the 700's trigger is something I can do myself. Do directions come w/ the rifle or is something I have to get off their website or something like that? Also, I think I'm going to go with a Leupold VX-I or VX-II...is the extra $ really worth it for the VX-II? Anyone know?

Look no further:
www.theoutdoorwriter.c...gger_3.htm

The CDL, excellent.

The following is from the net:

"RifleScopes.comMarch 14th, 2003, 02:08 PM
The difference between the VX-I, VX-II and Vari-X III is simple.

The Vari-X II line was retired at the end of 2001. Leupold replaced this line of products with two different lines, the VX-I and the VX-II. The VX-I is the exact same scope as the Vari-X II except that it is only offered in Gloss Finish, Duplex Reticle and in 2-7x, 3-9x and 4-12x. Unchanged since the '70's. Built from a three piece main tube. They have the same Lifetime Unlimited warranty that Leupold is famous for. However, there are no custom shop option available such as reticle changes, target knob installation or parallax changes.

VX-II is the new scope that fills the gap between the VX-I and the Vari X-III. This model has fully coated lenses with the addition of Multi-Coat 4 on the exterior lenses only. Multicoat 4 greatly increases the amount of all available light that reaches your eye, while at the same time minimizes the reflections of the sky on the outer eyepiece. Built from a three piece main tube. Audible and tactile coin-slot 1/4-MOA “click” adjustments on every model. Ten different reticles are available and three different finishes (gloss, matte or silver on most models), and target knobs and or adjustable objective available on select models. Ten models available.

Vari-X III is the flagship scope of Leupold. This model has kept up with technological advances over the years. Multicoat 4 anti-reflective lens coating on both interior and exterior lens surfaces for superior image quality, excellent light transmission, and outstanding clarity and contrast in all conditions. The difference in lens coatings results in the Vari-X III having approximately 92% total light transmission, the VX-II having approximately 86%. Built from a one piece main tube. Audible and tactile coin-slot 1/4-MOA “click” adjustments. Thirteen available reticles. Most models are available in gloss, matte or silver. Long Range and Target models available with turret mounted side focus parallax adjustments (30mm main tube). Several models feature exclusive Leupold Illuminated Reticle Technology or range estimating feature. Twenty four models available.

So to re-cap:
All Vari-X III models have Multicoat 4 lens coating on all lenses for enhanced light transmission (about 8 to 10% more than VX I, which has lenses fully coated with magnesium fluoride and 5 to 6% more than a VX-II with magnesium fluoride coated internal lenses and Multi-Coat 4 coated external lenses).

All Vari-X III models feature 1\4 minute of angle clicks in the windage and elevation adjustments. The VX I and II models use a friction type adjustment.

A range estimating is featured is standard on selected models of the Vari-X III 1.75-6x32mm, 2.5-8x36mm, 3.5-10 and 4.5-14 scopes."

www.swfa.com/SWFA.jpg

Frankly I would not have a two or three piece tube. I also hate scopes without click adjustments except for low power hunting scopes on short range guns, like a 45-70 or a 444 Marlin. Which in my case all sport non click scopes.
Ed

I hope the good folks at Sniper Country don't mind but these Remington trigger adjustment instructions came from their site and are spot on.

In the U.S.A., we live in a litigious society, and for those of you who live in Rio Linda, that means fools will do really stupid crap, and then sue someone else, because "It's their fault, they made me do it!". For those of you that don't know what you're doing... STAY AWAY FROM TRIGGERS... you can hurt someone (usually someone else!)
Adjusting triggers is something that was once an expected job by the owner of a new gun, just like adjusting the seats in your new car.
But Remington (because of many lawsuits) takes a very dim view of adjusting their triggers... it's number "1" under Remington's "Felony list of no-no's".
Be advised, if you adjust the trigger, and send the gun back to Remington (in the USA) for repairs, they will charge you for a new trigger (they will NOT re-adjust the old one).
.. and finely, your mileage may vary according to road conditions. If you are new at guns, and lack experience to do internal minor repairs and parts replacement... this may not be for you. Do not do the following unless you are skilled enough to work on guns, and responsible enough to handle them safely. I'm presenting this information as "Information Only"... it is SOLELY your decision whether you have the skill and ability to use this information.
If you have an accident, it means that you weren't skilled enough, or responsible enough, so you shouldn't have done the following, so it's not my fault, neither Sniper Country's!

Now on to the details
The Remington triggers are very good, except they come with a built in lawyer, and he weighs about 9 or 10 pounds.
You will need a bit of good quality gun oil (CLP or equivalent), and a set of small screwdrivers, and some white or red nail polish.
Remove the barreled action from the stock.
Looking at the gun and trigger so the safety is up, and the barrel is pointing to your right... the front of the trigger is to your right...

The three screws are as follows...
· On your right, (the front of the trigger) the top screw, near the action, is over travel...
· The bottom screw is spring tension...
· On your left side, (the back of the trigger) is the engagement screw.
First, break the white "Seals of God" and screw the three screws out enough so that you see several threads.
They may be hard at first, but they are NOT staked in place. The screws and trigger body are carbon steel, and may be rusted, or they may have a sealant on them. Just break them free. Drop a teeny bit of oil on the threads. Run the screws in and out several times until the oil is in the threads, and they turn freely.
OK, now down to business.
Back out the spring tension screw out until there is just enough pressure to keep the trigger forward, but it's very light (4 or 5 oz's) and easy to move.
Back out the engagement screw, (the single screw on the left) and the over-travel screw (the upper screw on your right) out, so there's play to adjust.
Close the bolt on a cocked pin (don't pull the trigger) and VERY SLOWLY turn the engagement screw (on your left) in until the firing pin drops. Back it out about 1/3 to 1/2 of a turn. With the firing pin down, you should now feel the trigger wobble back and forth if you pull it because there is excessive over travel.
Because the back surface of the trigger is NOT undercut, you have to adjust over-travel with the pin "down".
Now, with the firing pin in the "fired" position, screw in the over-travel screw until it "just touches" the trigger lightly, preventing the trigger from moving... back out the over travel screw 1/4 turn. Pulling the trigger now, (with the pin "down") you should feel just the "slightest" free movement.
Now turn in the spring tension screw (lower right) to a pull that you like... I'd strongly suggest a good trigger pull gauge, instead of guessing.
Cock the pin and try it... it should break like glass.
Check by:
· Slam the bolt closed a dozen times, check to see if the pin dropped each time. If the pin drops, back out the engagement screw 1/4 turn, and do again.
· Cock the pin, set the safety, pull the trigger, release the trigger, and release the safety, a dozen times... if the pin drops, increase the spring tension (shouldn't be necessary, unless you're down around 10-15 oz's, and this trigger is not reliable at that light a pull.
Put white or red nail polish on the screws. Let dry, and put another coat on it again, and again.
There will be no "take up slack", this is a single stage trigger, and can't be adjusted to act like a two stage.
These triggers are easily capable of going to 24-26 oz's, and they keep the setting year after year, and I've never had to re-adjust one.

Quote::

I also hate scopes without click adjustments

Yeah I would hate that too, but according to Leupold's site (http://www.leupold.com/products/Scope_Feature_Matrix.htm) the VX-II does have click adjustments. Maybe I'm confused though, am I?

Yep, Ya got the Vari X and the VX going on there. The VX-1 has no clicks and is the same as the Vari X-II which also has no clicks. The VX-II is a different critter, with clicks... Who said this was going to be easy

Really, just go to the store and pick up the scope and twist the knobs or in this case, coin slot, no clicks, go to the next level.
Ed

Sounds good...guess I'll go to the store after work.

Little bit of a thread revival here....

I ordered the 700 CDL and it should be in tomorrow or mon (hopefully tomorrow!), but when looking at leupold mounts, it asks for long or short action. Well, I don't know...which is it? The website doesn't say and I can't seem to find it. I'm assuming a short action, but I don't want to guess and would like to order the scope/rings off the internet at work tomorrow...you know, while I'm working hard and all ;).

Also, I'm going to get the VX-II 3-9x40...what mount height do you guys recommend? I'm thinking the standard low, but just want to hear opinions. Thanks.

Brabus,

The M700 CDL in 30-06 is a Long action

Dimitri

Yeah I was actually just thinking about it again, the 30.06 is a decently long round...so a long action would make more sense. Guess my thinking skills are a little clouded right now...all can be blamed on Clemson!

EDIT: Also yet again to show my little knowledge in this area...do I need to buy a base as well as rings? The receiver is "drilled and tapped for scope mounts"...so I don't know if that means I just have to buy rings, or do I have to have the base to attach the rings to the rifle? Thanks for helping out the new guy, I really appreciate it!

yes you need a base to.

Got the scope mounted...man I can't wait to shoot this next weekend at the range! However, quick question on the trigger adjustment (9lbs feels about right where it's at...sucks). The directions above make sense and seem good, but in this guys directions (http://www.varminthunters.com/tech/crisp.html), he does not adjust the trigger engagement screw (sear). It should be preset fine by the factory, so I feel like I shouldn't mess with that...plus I'm looking for about 3lbs, not in the ounces, which isn't even possible w/ the factory trigger (or so I've read). Would I be fine to go ahead and adjust the trigger stop screw and the trigger weight screw, and just leave the sear adjustment alone?

Leave the whole trigger alone unless your absolutly sure you know what your doing would be my answer to any trigger adjustment

Dimitri

Yeah I hear ya dimitri. I have done minor parts replacement, lowered the pull on my glock, etc. So by no means do I consider myself anywhere near a gunsmith, but I'm sure I can handle this. From the above directions, it's merely adjusting the two screws to a satisfactory/safe position. It's very straight forward. But why mess with 3 screws when I can get the same effect by messing with only 2? Plus, I hate paying someone a bunch of money to do something I can do myself.

Oh ok Brabus, If your confidant and have done it then I guess you are right you shouldnt mess with someone that has been preset right.

Dimitri