Remington rolling block

Elvis · Posted: Mon Sep 09, 2013 10:23 pm Post subject: Re: Remington rolling block

very nice indeed.

Suzanne · Posted: Tue Sep 10, 2013 5:41 am Post subject: Re: Remington rolling block

Nice......nice an expensive (for me) but nice looking replicas, if only they'd get a little fancier wood on them. Most gun makers do put pretty plain Jane wood on tho. Here's a great page on the various rolling blocks.

MacD · Posted: Tue Sep 10, 2013 9:08 am Post subject: Re: Remington rolling block

Oops link didn't post.

www.davide-pedersoli.c...block.html

Suzanne · Posted: Tue Sep 10, 2013 7:01 pm Post subject: Re: Remington rolling block

S'alright MacD I googled it anyway. Thanks! Been looking over some custom made ones and have some idea of what I want now, but the action on mine isn't going to look so great without some intervention. I found a great product called Evapo Rust (safe on skin and even eyes!) that makes the rust just fall off. I tore the thing down to all the various parts and soaked them and got the rust off no problem. I was able to actually take the barrel off by hand too. I think someone had tried to rebarrel it cause it was almost loose but not cleaned up.

Anyways the outside of the action has some pitting and I'd like to get it down past the pitting. Draw filing? might get most of it, but I have no experience doing that and I don't know what else I'd do. Any experienced expert ideas would be appreciated.

Ok here's the pitting....open for suggestions

Suzanne · Posted: Sat Sep 14, 2013 6:43 am Post subject: Re: Remington rolling block

I'm gonna run this question by you guys again, after some consideration and studying, I'm now wondering if draw filing the action is even possible. Isn't it surface hardened? If it's too hard to draw file (file skips over it like ice for instance) how else could I smooth it out, get rid of the pitting and dents?

Bushmaster · Posted: Sat Sep 14, 2013 6:46 am Post subject: Re: Remington rolling block

Stoning with various grits. Finish with a Washita (Arkansas) stone.

TRBLSHTR · Posted: Sat Sep 14, 2013 8:07 am Post subject: Re: Remington rolling block

Suz-they sell a rotary disc and pads that go on a 4" "side grinder"(grinder available at harbor freight <$20),they disc and pads are found at welding supply stores.These pads are made of varying grades of grit-scotch brite,and can be used for ferrous steel,stainless,aluminum,and even in your woodworking.They will take off as much or as little as you want with very little effort-just vary the grit.Other than that-you can use a belt sander or a disc sander-but you have to be much more carefull about how much you want to remove of the finish!At times I would be lost now without the scotchbrite "connection"! Laughing

TRBLSHTR · Posted: Sat Sep 14, 2013 8:09 am Post subject: Re: Remington rolling block

TRBLSHTR wrote:

8-O Suz-they sell a rotary disc and pads that go on a 4" "side grinder"(grinder available at harbor freight <$20),they disc and pads are found at welding supply stores.These pads are made of varying grades of grit-scotch brite,and are held to the disc with velcro,and can be used for ferrous steel,stainless,aluminum,and even in your woodworking.They will take off as much or as little as you want with very little effort-just vary the grit.Other than that-you can use a belt sander or a disc sander-but you have to be much more carefull about how much you want to remove of the finish!At times I would be lost now without the scotchbrite "connection"! Laughing

slimjim · Posted: Sat Sep 14, 2013 10:21 am Post subject: Re: Remington rolling block

Suz,

I think your metal deterioration is too deep to take out by hand. Trying to may only make the piece worse. I don't think this metal is hardened at all. It cut like butter when I cut the holes out for the oversize roller pins. It cut so quickly I actually cut just a tad too much and I had to stake the pins. I think I have an extra set of pins somewhere in my chest of treasures.

You might have a machine shop mill off just a couple of thousands on each side and do rounds (top and bottom) by hand. I would do the rounds first then mill the sides so you have a nice clean edge like in PKSlinger's action does. I think you will still have some pitting left unless you mill pretty deep. I think I used 400 or 600 wet sand paper and some steel wool to clean mine up.

Drop the hammer all the way with the trigger held down. Then grab the breech block and pull back. How much slop do you have? Can you use a thickness gauge to measure the gap between the face of the breech block and barrel? This will tell you how worn the action is.

Best Wishes, you may end up putting more money into making this gun function than it will be worth when you are done.

gelandangan · Posted: Sat Sep 14, 2013 2:24 pm Post subject: Re: Remington rolling block

Personally I would leave the pitting alone, it is an old gun, pitting are expected.
Filing it down would weaken the system.

Remove the rust by immersion into molasses would be good too.

Aloysius · Posted: Sat Sep 14, 2013 3:24 pm Post subject: Re: Remington rolling block

Polishing with such a buffingwheel doesn't remove anything, it only replaces... that's what I've been told.
Now when you use polishing pasta with too coarse gritt, it will remove a little bit, but properly done Suz could use it as a mirror.
How do you finish your knives gelandangan? Don't you put them on a buffing-wheel?

Suzanne · Posted: Sat Sep 14, 2013 4:56 pm Post subject: Re: Remington rolling block

SlimJ I'm able to pull the breech block back .009" and it is the gap between the breech block and the hammer block (where the hammer block goes under the breech block) that closes up when you push the breech block. If I push the hammer and the breech block against each other I cannot move the breech block back, the gap doesn't close but also the breech block won't go anywhere.

slimjim · Posted: Sat Sep 14, 2013 5:38 pm Post subject: Re: Remington rolling block

Suz, when you pull the breech block back against the fallen hammer, you are taking out the slack that an expanding cartridge would do during firing. Mine was much more worn than yours resulting in head-space problems and split cases even with low pressure loads. A gunsmith can tell you if your action is ok.

I also found a big difference in brass. Winchester brass was very thin walled and the rim was not as thick as other brass providing clearance to easily fit in my refurbished action. I ended up going with Star-line brass because it was thicker and, IMO, stronger. However, I had to fill a couple thousands of brass off the bases to get enough clearance to close my action - that is how tight my fit is now.

I also indexed my brass so if my breech isn't exactly square, a common characteristic of rolling blocks, (notice I didn't say problem) I wouldn't overwork/weaken the brass with multiple firings. The brass would fire-form to the off-square breech block and be good after that. (wow, memory is coming back)

Suzanne · Posted: Sat Sep 14, 2013 6:59 pm Post subject: Re: Remington rolling block

Thanks SlimJ, well I have lots of starline brass, maybe I'll cut one down (from 45-70) to fit the chamber and see how the block closes. My Marlin 45-70 doesn't seem to like Win. brass, I guess I could cut one of those down too and see what kind of fit I get.

Another question you can answer for me is about loading BP ammo. I've watched a few tutorials on it and noticed that the bullet is pressed in by hand and the lube grooves aren't even in the case. Some guys put a slight crimp on just to keep them from falling out. Why don't they have more neck tension than that?

Oh and I found a gunsmith that does specialty rolling block work here. Check out his prices and see what you think.

slimjim · Posted: Sun Sep 15, 2013 3:43 am Post subject: Re: Remington rolling block

Suz, I studies the black powder loading process and decided that was way too much effort. It gave me a real appreciation for what a person had to do to work with BP. I chose to use the lowest of Hodgdon's low pressure loads. I tried 40 grains of Varget first but there was always unburnt powder in the barrel. I switched to 41gr of H4895 and that has worked well giving me 1450 fps out of a 28" barrel at (if I remember right) slightly lower pressure than PB. Also, BP kicks more.

I also talked with many BP shooters and they too recommended no neck resizing. I can't remember why. I have followed their advise. Makes reloading that much easier.

Your lucky to have a qualified GS near by. I would seek out his advise. Note he has a process that might take care of your pitting.

THIN MILITARY ACTION TO SPORTER THICKNESS
REQUIRES RE-COUNTER BORING OF SCREW HOLES & SHORTENING SCREWS & ACTION PINS