Biggest thing to get me over flinching was a much slower trigger pull... I slowly add pressure until the gun goes off... if I find myself drifting off target I maintain the current pressure until I get the rifle back on target and continue squeezing. It should be a complete surprise when the rifle goes off... if it is, there is no time to flinch.


-DallanC

Dallan...I said that...Glad you agree...

Bushmaster wrote:

Why, might I ask, are we lookin' for last years sheds???

Sorry BUSHMASTER, I ve been busy. To ansewer your ? Yes Iam looking for this years sheds. I have taken a few bucks successfuly this way. an Old boy told me how to do this, and I have taken Trophy bucks ever since. I have seen a few shooters in the past few months {30+ inches} BUT, I seen one last season that is a main frame4 with some trash that I know is way over the 30 inch mark. I seen him on the hunt but couldnt get close enough for a shot. That is why I bought my 300wbymag for distance and knockdown power. And last weekend I found a fresh forkie and a average 4 point from last year! But during last years shed hunting season, I found the matching set to my buck!!! So lets wait and see what happens for this years hunt. Its been nice talkin too ya! BUBBA

It is extremely rare to find sheds here in the west...Probably because of the large areas of national forests and wilderness and the small animals that eat the antlers...I have only found a very few during my travels to the mountains...Hence you never hear of anyone using sheds to aid in the hunt...

bubba –

You have a number of options, some better than others.

1. Get a good recoil pad on the rifle if it doesn’t already have one.
2. Use a PAST pad for your shoulder.
3. Get a muzzle break. I consider this a lousy option due to the noise issue, but its an option.
4. Shoot reduced loads. I have .308 equivalent loads for my .300 Win Mag as well as full power loads.
5. Trade it in for something you can tolerate.

'scuse my ignorance but what, is a shed?

D

A shed is a place where we store things.

In the case of animals it refers to the "shed" antlers the bucks lose in the winter. Finding a big shed gives you an idea that a big buck is in this territory and will most likely be there again next season.

longwalker

Past pad werks good , I got one for a mean kicking 16 gauge and trap .. One day I may try it on the 375 and 458 ..But they dont kick too bad ..
Jack

My 2cents on muzzle breaks, they lessen the impact on your shoulder but kill the ears of who ever might be in the area. Sister has on on her 06 and I hate to be anywhere around when it is shot.

Guess I am getting old, still can't figure out why they need all these magnum rifles these days. have the animals gotten that much bigger lately? =-)

The topic of this is "reducing recoil while handloading", so where's the information on reduced handloads? All I saw was recoil pads, muzzle brakes and opinions on them! I would like to see some info on reduced loads. Does anyone have any that are safe? Like for the .308? I don't mind the recoil, just would like something for a cast 178gr. flat nose.

Read your favorite load manual and choose a load for that particular bullet that has the lowest pressure rating. Or load a lighter bullet. We have discussed load and bullet makeup and are now discussing other options. Might I recommend Lyman's 48th Reloading Handbook???

Boone,

Your request seems reasonable given the nature of this thread. You may want to look into the Reloading Database on this site, there are many loads in your caliber to choose from.

Best of luck

The Speer manual usually shows a reduced recoil load for each caliber.
I believe Sierra has been posting some reduced recoil loads on their website as well.
Remington has been marketing reduced recoil factory loads lately, as well, if that helps any.
Using a lighter bullet and the starting load in the manual you use will help, too.
The PAST recoil pads are a help.
I am not a fan of muzzle brakes- the recoil is reduced, at the price of a sharp increase in noise. Enough to damage your hearing with one shot.

Bubba:

There is no easy answer, and there are several things in play here. Some folks are sensitive to recoil, some are not. Some have a genetic condition (hereditary) that makes them hyper sensitive to sharp, loud noises, and some , as mentioned have learned the behavior... or it may be a combnation of all the above, or more.

Regardless of unlettered opinions that it ..."is all in your mind"... It does exist, and must be dealt with on whatever level you can achieve.

The old saw "You shoot best with what kicks you least", Is true. That is fact. The reason for the .260 Remington and the .223 Cheetah rounds was that Jim Charmichael, who is a premiere big bore long-range shooter suddenly became recoil sensitive, and developed cartridges with less recoil so he could continue to compete.

This last week end I had a natter with my favorite brother in law, who gave me an up-close and personal account of an Alaskan Brown Bear climbing into their fishing boat, to get at the salmon. He may be B.S.ing his flatlander bro, but he IS entertaining to talk to.

Among other things, for "therapy" he hand forges parts to keep restored Lewis machine guns of the type you see in ancient pictures of WWI airplanes working . They are the ones with the drum magazine, mounted on the top wing, or on the rear cockpit ring.

He also puts together long range, big bore rifles, including .50 cal loudenboomers, which some "old guys" from Arizona mount on the back of flat bed trucks, along with recliners, coolers, and umbrellas, for doing REALLY long-range coyote plinking in comfort. When he talks shooting and guns, I listen.

He shoots the big long-range stuff rather well, but told me he had recently started putting one or even two mercury recoil reducers in his rifles. He says it "takes the sting out', which indicates to me he was really feeling the recoil.

In addition to good recoil pads, I am now considering a mercury reducer for my rifles, based upon his recommendation, and my increasing recoil sensitivity as I get older.

Reduced loads are only a partial solution at best.

A problem with severely reduced loads is they can suddenly become more dangerous than +MAX loads. I've yet to hear a satisfying reason why that is, but the leading theory is you reach a point where the powder lays too low in the case and the primer ignition pushes the bullet up until it lodges on the lands and THEN the powder ignites and the lodged bullet then acts as a barrel obstruction.

Its best to stick with mfg's suggest min loads and if thats still too much go with a lighter bullets as recommended above.


-DallanC