I have no idea what the counterweight should weigh, as it is relative only to that scale. The set of check weights are somewhat expensive in my opinion, Morax's suggestion is what I would reccomend, get a quality bullet of known weight and check the scale, dont get to bent out of shape if it is not EXACT as bullets might weigh slightly more or less than stated. Weigh several bullets to see what the average is. As long as it is within a few tenths you should be fine, as you should start a few grains below maximum loads anyhow when working up a load. If you have any buddys with reloading tools you could weigh a bullet on their scale and yours to compare.

another solution to the guess the weight delema is take a bullet or three to the local post office and say can you help me, have them toss them onto thier scales and see what thier "official" weigh in is, then you can go from there... the local post office here know me well enough they know to be ready for anything when i walk in!! had em weigh everything from bullets to pine box racers for the scouts to r/c airplane parts!!!

I never realized their scales were that accurate.

some of them are, the one we have here thier scales are real good, but i am sure the closer you get into town where the scales are used more they are beat up you know... but yeah they work fairly good for quickie checks on your stuff..

K. Got some Nosler Solid Base Boat Tail 165 grn .30cal bullets from a friend. Put them on my scale and each one measured out consistantly at 156grn instead of the factory stated 165grn. Could I be measuring wrong? I zeroed my scale by the book, and measured the bullets the same way I would measure powder.

How much can I get a kenetic hammer for? Just an inexpensive one for 30-06sprg. How much is too much, I figure about $15-$20, that's the cheapest I can find online but then there's shipping and handling which will make it well over $20-$25.

How do I use the chamfering tool, the one peice double ended model with a inside chamfer bit on one end and a multi prong bit on the other?

If your scale is zeroed correctly then the bullets most be the wrong weight. Did your friend give you a whole box or just a few to try them?

If your local gunshop has loading supplies then they'll either have one or get one for you. You might even have them check your scale. Also, try to find out if there are any gunshows coming up in your area. You can find all kinds of good stuff there.

As far as the chamfering tool goes, I've never even used mine.

Chamfering tool is easy, just put the pointed end in the mouth.......twist a few times just to remove the sharp edge...........then put the pin in the case mouth and twist a few more times with the three "fingers" on outside of case mouth to remove the sharp edge. As far as the scale, I am not sure what to tell you.......Nosler does not make a bullet anywhere close to 156 grain. Out of curiosity I just measured 5 different weight bullets on my scale and they were right on the money, within a 10th of a grain of what they were supposed to be. As long as your scale is consistent it is usable if you learn how far it is off. If you are positive the scale is zeroed correctly, (beam pointer hanging centered on center of mark when set at zero) I would suggest weighing a bullet on your scale and then finding another scale to double check the same bullets weight. Worst case scenario you could mail that bullet to someone with a scale to check on their scale. I dont know if you want to mail a bullet to Alaska, there has to be someone closer, but I would be happy to check it with mine. Good luck.

I was reading the scale wrong! All of the Noslers measure out to 165grn. I was reading the tick marks on the large poise scale as 2grn each instead of 5grn. Sorry, newbie mistake! I got it figured out now, lol.

Great !! Glad you have an accurate scale and that you didnt make that mistake while loading ammunition.

So, Monday I pick up powder and primers and will start workin' on my first load. Already have some bullets and shells I'll be using. Here's what I'm gonna work on:

Nosler Solid Base BTBT 165grn .308dia (already have, 57pcs)
H4350 starting at 53grn, max at 59grn (buying 1lb Monday)
Federal #210m LR-Match Primer (buying Monday, if not then Fed #210)
Remington 30-06 Sprg new brass (already have, 70pcs)

@53grn Velocity is 2678fps from a 24" barrel.
My barrel is 22 7/16" so approx 40fps slower.

I do not have a full length sizer, I will use my Lee Loader to neck size and my calipers to make sure their all the right length, then chamber a few before doing anything else to make sure they'll chamber/seat properly.
My borrowed Load book (Hodgdons Data Manual #23) doesn't list H4350 so this load is compiled from Hodgdon's load data website (using Sierra SPBT 165grn .30cal bullets) and other websites to include HuntingNut's Load Database. Haven't figured out seating depth yet. Someone said the rule of thumb is start with at least the diameter of the bullet in depth? Any suggestions, as most of you will likely have the load I'm trying to make in your books?

How many should I start with loading to test? Should I load a few each at +.5grn increments to just under max? Remember I don't have a bullet puller yet so if I mess up I can't fix them until then.

84jeepj10 wrote:

How many should I start with loading to test? Should I load a few each at +.5grn increments to just under max? Remember I don't have a bullet puller yet so if I mess up I can't fix them until then.

That's the way I'd do it. Good luck.

Is this a good load? Please check your books and if possible please tell me the proper seating depth and any corrections I need to make.

84jeepj10...I really hate to be sour grapes on this subject, but I have discussed this on other sites...I highly recommend that you get your own load manual and not rely on hear-say information or data from old manuals(And I don't care if HE is your friend)...I would recommend Lyman 48th Edition for starters. Then if you are going to use Sierra bullets might I also recommend Sierra Edition V 2nd printing. IMR and Hodgdon information can be gotten from the internet web sites for Hodgdon, Winchester and IMR. Plus a couple of other powder brands. Bullet manufacturers are another good source...

But...Against my better judgement..
Sierra manual 165 gr. SBT and HPBT lists no H4350. But Hodgdon load manual for 2005 lists 165 gr. Sierra SPBT with H4350 59.0 gr. Winchester case, COL of 3.300 from a 24" barrel at 2938 and 49,400 CUP.

Please...Buy your own manuals. Don't trust anyone else's load data...NOT EVEN MINE. Question all load data and varify unless it comes from a relatively recent manual. Even then look for typing errors. The main reason for having more then one or two manuals besides having two or more references to information on load data.

Insure that you start low (in most cases 10% below maximum charge data) on all load data charts and work up to maximum or where your firearm works the best without exceeding maximum charge data.

Bushmaster wrote:

84jeepj10...I really hate to be sour grapes on this subject, .

Not being sour grapes when your advice is to "err on the side of caution" as we used to say it, Bushy, it's just sound advice.

Like Bushy says, use reliable data. Start at listed minimum and go .3-.5gr increments until max. or until you've got a satisfactory group, which ever comes first, watching for pressure signs. Read that section in the manual so that you'll know what to look for. DO NOT EXCEDE MAX LOADS!!!

I would load 3 rounds per group. Don't adjust your scope at all during the test period, you're going for groups not bullseyes.

As far as bullet seat depth goes, do you still have the PM I sent you on that. If not I'll send it again.

Read first, then reread, then reload. I've seen the results of a bolt being blown out of a rifle, not pretty. Lucky for him it hit him in the cheek bone and not the eye.