reloading equipment maintenence

Suzanne

Don't let your wife find out Mikey or she'll find another use for your toothbrush.

Suz

dan1dad

interesting on the Brownell link, and I do like Brownell, especially the "Kinks" books. Have had the whole set for years now and enjoy reading them all the time.
Anyway, the Brownell product, RP2 says it has "petroleum distillates "
and then states " Will not harm stock finishes"

then when scrolling down to "WD40" they state that it contains " petroleum distillates that could affect certain stock finishes"

Id say this " test" could be slightly slanted to promote their product over others. A marketing test.

I do know what Suz is talking about though with WD40. I have a EAA Witness where I sandblasted and bead shot the slide, then decided to leave it bare metal. It just looked cool. At first I sprayed with WD40 ; I was out of ACF50 at that time. I carried it one time and the slide started to rust up. I carry that hog in my middle back, so especially in the summer it does get exposed to some sweat. I cleaned it up, and once my ACF50 arrived I sprayed it down with that and have never had a problem with it. I use ACF50 on every one of my firearms, and dont have rust problems at all. I love the stuff. In fact, I have a Colt 1903 380 that my dad won in a 5 cent push pin raffle when he was 5 years old back in 1935, and I sprayed that gun over 6 years ago, carry it, shoot it, leave it laying around and not a speck of rust on it. He passed along to me a lot of his firearms he has collect over the decades, and since cleaning them up and spraying them down, I dont have any problems with rust or corrosion. Before he had them in safe's gun cases, even wrapped in blankets in the Attic, and many started to get rust on them. Took me weeks to clean all 248 of them up, but it was worth it. Again, I highly recomentd the ACF50, but the Boeing T9 is suppose to be similar and likely just as good. face it, if its made for the aircraft industry, its not as likely to be hyped unless it really does what it says. Commercial products like WD40 and the rest, you can figure part of what they claim is hype. Just my opinion.

Ominivision1

dan1dad wrote:

Took me weeks to clean all 248 of them up, but it was worth it.

248 guns is more than the Bass Pro Shops have here. Jaw Drop

Bushmaster

Say....Do you have a blank line on your will?

Suzanne

Photos please!! I bet you have some gems

Suz

SingleShotLover

I tried T9 some time ago and it did a good job of protecting but it seemed to leave a dull residue behind. I don't have an issue with WD40 protecting, but I have heard that the propellant used is slightly corrosive and can etch metal. I haven't used it for a long time so really don't know.

I have finally run out of a spray protectant that I received from my late uncle. He was a retired USAF maintenance chief and gave me several cans many years ago. It was used on critical air craft parts and was even used to protect critical wiring and connections. It dried clear with no residue or oily feel and did a great job of preventing rust...even on long-stored firearms and garden tools. Unfortunately the procurement number had worn off of my last can long ago so I can't even reference it to something else.

stovepipe

Newsflash...doilies, curtains, tampons, et al...

Are NOT allowed in the reloading area. Jeez you guys see a pretty girl and get all wonky.

Dies- disassemble, contact cleaner/patch to remove cast lube gunk etc.
Presses- 30w or 3-in-1, Hoppes gun oil etc... they also get lifted once in a while to get cleaned underneath due to primers, dust and all the bad stuff that's there.

Never get any oil anywhere powder or a primer might go.

Like the graphite suggestion- 'cept mine would rust w/o oil.

stovepipe

SingleShotLover wrote:

I don't have an issue with WD40 protecting, but I have heard that the propellant used is slightly corrosive and can etch metal. I haven't used it for a long time so really don't know.

Heard that too from several persons. Told me to use the pump-bottle and there's no problemos.

English Mike

Suzanne wrote:

Don't let your wife find out Mikey or she'll find another use for your toothbrush.

Suz

No wife around to whine.
Anyway; I would never suggest reusing them post barrel cleaning. Very Happy

Bushmaster

As I stated earlier...WD-40 is on my workbench in my shop and is NEVER found on or near my loading bench.

WD-40 is a GREAT penetrant ONLY

Reusing them? Right...Though if you are using Hoppe's #9....It might work. Yes. I believe it would be an improvement... Embarassed

stovepipe

Here we go again!!! Toilet Claw

PaulS

Actually, WD-40 is not a penetrant. "WD" stands for water displacer and the "40" is for the attempt number that finally worked.
It will displace water and then evaporate. It does not protect metal unless you soak the metal in a jar of the stuff. If you take the metal out of the jar it will rust.
Using an acid neutral oil is the best way to protect gun metal for short term. A 50/50 mix of dexron and kerosine is one of the best penetrating and protective oils I have ever found. Silicone wax, grease and oil are all pretty good too but the film they leave behind is hard to remove and silicone can destroy plastic and wood finishes.
Lanolin used to be used a lot but it attracts water just like alcohol and brake fluid.

Elvis

crc5.56 is good for spraying down the bore and all over the metal if you get home/back to camp to stuffed to clean your rifle just remember to store it muzzle down so it can drain away. I always take a can on long hunting trips. the guns get a proper clean when they get home. My buddy and I did this on a week long trip to stewart Island and didnt have any rust issues which is a major problem in the salty air down there.I dont use/have hopps and the like but a good spray/soak followed by a good scrub with the brush then rag brings my bores up nice n shiney Smile