shrpshtrjoe wrote:

IMO people come here to learn and have fun.

Exactly....

And it's that as long as the Status Quo is maintained and the pro's can exist without their methods and means being challenged.

When they are/it is, the quickness to cry foul is truely amazing.....

Seems everyone's opinion is aloud as long as it don't disagree with a couple few with high post counts.

That, should change..............

wildswalker wrote:

shrpshtrjoe wrote: IMO people come here to learn and have fun. Exactly.... And it's that as long as the Status Quo is maintained and the pro's can exist without their methods and means being challenged. When they are/it is, the quickness to cry foul is truely amazing..... Seems everyone's opinion is aloud as long as it don't disagree with a couple few with high post counts. That, should change..............

I come here to learn (at least most times[right Dimitri]), and for one appreciate differing opinions, especially since I'm one of those "gotta be a better way" people, and enjoy tinkering. Range time is as precious as hunting time these days, so any reduction in "reloadin" time helps.

Let me jump in and correct a few things.

wildswalker wrote:

And as far as Dallan anf Joe setting up a site about shooting...

HuntingNut was primarily started 1) as a means so I could have and maintain my own email address and maintain spam filtering, 2) as a place to host files as I transferred from work to home and back without having to drag files with me. A short time later it became the host site for PointBlank software. There are a few people that have been visiting long enough to remember when it was hosted at one of those free dinky hosting sites, back in '98 or so. It was started and created souly by myself and none other. To this day I do ALL of the programming and hardcore maintainance of the site.

Joe, Popgun and others that are moderators are just nice folk that visit the site often and offered to help maintain forum posting issues and a few other things (approve handloads or pictures that get submitted for example). I highly doubt there has been 10 posts nuked or locked since I accepted their offers to moderate. BUT, they have been here long enough I trust and respect their judgement on issues.

wildswalker wrote:

And it's that as long as the Status Quo is maintained and the pro's can exist without their methods and means being challenged. When they are/it is, the quickness to cry foul is truely amazing..... Seems everyone's opinion is aloud as long as it don't disagree with a couple few with high post counts. That, should change..............

I have discussed this with a few of you already in pm's. There is no "bias" here protecting any one member over another. I've said it in the past that it is perfectly find to discuss ideas and issues as long as its done in a respectful manner. Making attacks, or negative personal comments is against the rules and not allowed, I dont care if its a new member or one thats been here from day one.

If someone finds a questionable comment "over the line" they should report it to a moderator.

Quote::

It's that on the surface for the most part, but the clique-ness is almost nauseating.

If you dislike the site that badly then perhaps other sites would suit you better. I said it in the forums and PMs with you wildswalker, you seem extremely knowledgable with respect to firearms and reloading. You opinion is respected, but how you come across in your messages seems combatative. You also take things as personal attacks when it seems they are not. In this thread reading through it carefully bushmaster gave his opinion on tumblers, you gave yours. He then said he disliked wet cases but the original poster could make up his mind, which your responded with by taking it as them getting their "toes stepped on". Sorry but I dont see this latest blowing happening like that.

You gave good advice if someone doesnt want to use a tumbler, he gave good tips if someone does want to use a tumbler. No harm no foul, its just a difference of opinion. I've used both methods actually, but tend towards using the tumbler and checking each case with a pick for stuck media. Tedious but I dont reload near the amount of cases some of you guys do.


I provide these message boards for people to relax and chat about things we like. I am not trying to promote the board into being the next handloaders.com or monstermuleys.com, but as our stats show, it *IS* popular as it sits racking up several million visits a year. It means we are doing something right here and people find it enjoyable.

Take a cue from Bushmaster who in his own way, ruffled more than a few feathers when he first came here :), but hes mellowed a tad and is a fun person to have around.


-DallanC

I feel so..........moderated.

Of course, no offense meant by that............

Thank you Joe

Thank you Dallan ... I meant to type it in with the other but hit submit too quick

I got the Lee Turret Deluxe kit, dies, brass and bullets, and a cartridge measurer in the mail! Can't wait to get started, thanks for all your help and advice guys!

Alright BigD: Prepare yourself for a lifetime of loading fun that will continue to expand with the years. Of course, if you have questions or find some kinks in the process, be sure to post and the Forum will respond.

FWIW: I have found using cast bullets in the 30-30 has also been a very enjoyable process. Once you get the jacketed bullets performing to your satisfaction, cast bullets can be purchased from a number of sources, such as Midway or Beartooth Bullets. I run a lot of cast from my Model 94 in the 1,100 to 1,200 fps range and use them for practice and just plain plinking.

Often overlooked in the initial loading process is the purchase of a good chronograph. Until you have one, you will only be guessing at velocities and, therefore, trajectories and energy. Understanding Standard Deviations is a big help in developing accurate loads. Knowing what your loads will do in very cold or very hot weather is another benefit of chronographing.

Let us know how it is going.

bigdeano88

I am sort of new to reloading myself (I feel your pain), I have been absorbing information my self from web forums, pompous ***ks at the gun range, descent folks at the gun range, and other various sources.

I initially wanted to start reloading for some of my firearms that fed on more expensive ammunition, but actually opted for my dirty 30. This cartridge is a happy cartridge to start out with from what I found. I acquired my Hornady press, a Hornady reloading book and a Hogdon powder manual and other various items. I wanted a cheaper alternative to my Winchester factory loaded hollow points (I have yet to find a supplier of these bullets) and was absolutely sick of mainstream bullets not expanding on whitetail like they were supposed to. The idea was: if I have to pay for premium ammunition it might as well be tuned to my rifle and so far it is.

I was happy with the information I got from both the Hornady and Hogdon manuals. I have found to look at more than one source on information; though this can be confusing, one source may explain one step better than another. I also had the good fortune of watching another seasoned reloader actually reload some ammo this helped me actually seeing these steps. I just look for the constants in the information and ask seasoned reloaders about things I don't understand or am flat out curious about. This is where the constants thing helps out, it helps you pull facts from opinions and always keep in mind your results will usually differ from theirs (or the manual). I recommend only using powder data from the manufacturers rather than some random person. Take the advice into consideration many people actually know what they are talking about, but there are always a select few whom only think they do. It is always better to error on the side of caution.

The two manuals helped a lot on what basic things I needed, a press, a trimmer and de-burring tool, a dial caliper, a primer pocket cleaner, etc. The manuals also stated some things that I was unsure of these things are things I collected a general consensus on.

I found the best way to start out is simple I have purchased a large amount of equipment to do things that I probably don't need to do and have spent more time researching this other crap then shooting and reloading. Also do one gun and one load for one purpose at a time. I say one gun because it clearly states in the manuals, and I have actually witnessed is a chamber dimensions being different. If you want to load one type of ammo for more than one gun, that can be managed, but I will leave that for another discussion
I say one purpose on the grounds that you may find the most accurate loads are not the best suited for hunting needs. Keeping it simple also will aid in keeping the price of equipment down, this is where the saving money part starts to work if you save say $2.00 per box of shells how many boxes that you make will it take to equal say $100.00 of equipment. Start with the basics and add as necessary.

One big question I had is what is the SAAMI limit on chamber pressure? Powder companies publish free load data from time to time and I found a good answer to this in these manuals as compared to the two stated manuals.

On trying to find a hunting load goal I used factory-loaded ammo as a concept. Now I know the Hornady 150 gr bullets will probably react different than the hollow points at an average of 2200 fps but I know a 150 grain bullet is more effective at this speed versus the 1950 fps (my old mainstream ammo) without taking the bullets construction into account (an entirely different, long, and argumentative conversation) I look extensively at factory load offering when figuring on what speeds are good for what. After that it’s computing point blank range, (hmm, how did I find this site) Taylor Knockout value, the optimum game weight formula, and good old-fashioned experience. (Trigger Time!)

For Gear the manuals cover this:

A press: there’s a bunch them, take care in picking one out, you can go minimum to the hammer type or the extreme of a high capacity progressive or even automated ($10,000)
I would way the cost to how much ammo you are going to reload. Does 20-40 rounds per year justify a big old Dillon progressive capable of 600 rounds per hour? If you go with a press I recommend one of the “O-type presses” they seem to keep things straighter than the “C-type” presses (my opinion). I also recommend a single stage over a progressive starting out. It’s easier to start out when you can see and understand each step individually. Save the progressive for when you have to turn out larger quantities and are more experienced even then the single stage press will be either some use to you or if well kept, be handy for someone else starting out. There are some other tidbits such as camming action for ease of use, use your own judgment based on your needs.

Dies: I personally us Hornady exclusively except for one set of Lyman (purchased used)
This is entirely your choice based on your needs you are not firing fully automatic so I would think most dies will work. The 30-30 has to be “full length resized” be sure read the instructions for adjusting headspace this I have found not to be a large problem on the my 30-30 but I find it helps the brass life if it does not have to “stretch” as much on each firing.

A trimmer and de-burring tool (these go hand in hand): many options

A dial caliper (my life experience in the automotive, machining and now plastics industries is to be prepared to spend a little bit for one of these. Starret, Mitityuo(sp) Brown & Sharp, or Central seem to be good) I went moderately priced but not “cheap”
(Central)

Powder scale, case block, funnel, and some way of trickling, dispensing, or dropping powder. See a reloading manual for procedures and I recommend staying a way from the little yellow powder scoops.

Tumbler & media brass separating device

Possible priming device if your press does not do it or you find yourself in the train of thought that the press does it wrong.

Safety glasses & Ear plugs

Case lubing operation: many options research it.

A sturdy bench and a clean place to work away from distractions.

Your brain and all of your attention.

Research a chronograph they are quite handy, for more than just reloading, such as factory ammunition, bows, shotguns, paintball guns, etc. But you will need to know where you are at in velocity.

I am sure I am probably leaving something out but these fine folks in this forum will gladly fill in any spot I have missed.

I hope I have been some assistance. Keep your powder dry and when hunting season roles around may you get your blade wet.

Welcome jbird22cal, to HuntingNut, the worst kept secret on the net. Grab a beer, drag up a piece a dirt and sit awhile.

Well done on your first post mate, a well written piece full of good advice.

Cheers, Vince

Thanks! I will!

Alright so I have everything set up, got my dies all dialed in, drove to the gun shop and bought powder and primer (got bulk brass and lead online)... then went to get started and realized I forgot to grab some lube. Are there any household products I could use? Vegetable oil? Vaseline? Spit(jk)? Haha, seriously though, I'm lazy and really don't wanna make the 45 minute round trip to the store.

bigdeano88 wrote:

I forgot to grab some lube. Are there any household products I could use? Vegetable oil? Vaseline? Spit(jk)? Haha, seriously though, I'm lazy and really don't wanna make the 45 minute round trip to the store.

Deano, do yourself a favour mate and make that trip.....of course you can also pick up a slab (of beer) for AFTER you have finished reloading.

Seriously though mate, it is my understanding that case lube is designed to allow your case to slip into the die without doing any damage to either the case or the die. I believe that using the wrong type of oil can have a hydraulic type effect, denting the case, or you may even end up with a case stuck in the die. I am still using the small bottle (about 2 or 3 oz) of Pacific brandcase lube I purchased in 1981.....a little bit goes a looong way.

If anybody has a recipe for a homemade case lube please feel free to post it.

Cheers, Vince

The subject, like all subjects dealing with reloading, has sooo many different opinions by sooo many people that you could write a book on case lubes and the technics of application and use. Some will recommend Hornady One Shot (makes a good squeek illiminator IM[not so]HO). Others will suggest waxes and still others will pray to the blue Kool-aid god.

And there's me...I have been using the RCBS lube pad and RCBS lube for twenty years. It has always worked for me.

Read up on the application of case lubes. You can get too much on a case and deform it (dents) or you can get too little on the case and have a stuck case (not the end of the world I might add). It really doesn't take too much and when you get the hang of it. It's easy. By The Way...Minor dents caused by case lube or other causes will iron themselves out when loaded and fired. Case lube dents usually show up on the case shoulder...It helps to clean your resizing/decapping die on a regular basis to remove access lube that will accumulate inside the die. Just disassemble the die and wipe it clean with a clean rag. Solvents will, in some cases, get them too clean...Expecially alchohol...

Have at it...Glad to see ya still with us...

Go get the lube. There are no short cuts to that.