Thanks Bushmaster.

this set up I have is a rcbs single stage press.

for $150.00
I bought the whole set up about a month ago. came with about 4 different dies. powder scale. poweder measure , shell shaver for resizing shells. 3 reloading books, , about 4 full boxes of 223 bullets. and about 2 full boxes of 9mm. bullets. 3 cans of MRI 3031 powder. and about a half full can of Uniqe herculies poweder.
I ended up buying a new can of Uique aliant poweder. I think the can of herculies powerder is over 20 years old. it might need to be in a historical musium. ?? but I have loaded about almost 300 rounds with it for my 9mm.

I also bught the new 2 book set Hornady books. volume 1 and 2.

so any information you guys want to give me about realoding, I would be appriciative .

this is my first time reloading on my own. so far every thing seems to be working good.

only real problems I have ran into, was on my 30-30. I ended crimping a little too much. it was barly makeing ripples in the casing, making the shell fit tight in the chamber.
I turned the die about a 1/8 turn out , and tightend it up. this fixed that probem and the shells look very good, and they all look good for measurments with the calipers. dementions are good.

only thing is. I have been wondering what is the best way to figure out how deep to set the bullet. ?? as I was reading , the proper depth would be for the bullet to be as close as possible to the rifelings in teh barrel.

I have tried to use a dry-errase marker , cover the hole bullet and part of the shell. chamber it up and see if I can see any markings in the dry-errase. so far none of my bullets have been long enough to hit the rifflings.

ripper007, if I may make a suggestion, get yourself a Lee Factory Crimp Die to make the crimp. With the L.F.C die it is not as important to have all your cases exactly the same length as it does when using your bullet seating die. Your crimps will be more uniform. I have used one for my 45-70 since I bought the rifle and would not crimp any other way.

Moose2...You DO have load manuals now, don't you???

Oh contrare mon frier...I absolutely agree with 1895ss except.. ..You should make very sure that each case is the same length(you need a case trimmer) when using the Lee FCD. That way you will insure a even crimp through out the loading process on each finished round. It will make a real difference with acuracy with the .30-30. By The Way what do you have. One of those 1895ss .30-30s or a WINCHESTER .30-30s...And I do have a pet load for .30-30...

OH come on Bushy, JUST SAY IT................... M A R L I N, .......now was that so hard? Not hard to pronounce and it rolls off the tongue easier than Winchester. Besides, the action is smoother and they have been known to be a bit more accurate.....

Beings as how I was so rudely interrupted...I will try to continue with this serious string...Not having any fancy equipment to set the bullet just short of the rifling. Use lampblack or a match and blacken the bullet that is seated just a little long. Chamber it and remove it. you should see marks of the rifling on the bullet. Do this until you see no more rifling marks on the lamp blackened bullet. Now move the bullet forward until you see the marks again. Measure the OAL and set it back about .002" until the marks disapear again. Measure the case and bullet for OAL and you have it...Only one comment...Remember that not all bullets of the same manufacturer and weight are the same length. Make sure you use a bullet that has a near perfect point on it. Oh say the longest bullet in the box. That way you will get a good average. Or go buy the gauges for this operation...

It is not all that important that a hunting rifle be set right at the rifling and some rifles don't like to be set too close to the rifling...You will have to experiment until you find the proper OAL for that rifle...

I agree this time.......... like Bushy said

Lets see, reloading manuel. I did finally break down about 30 years ago and bought one. There sure was alot of stuff in there that I didn't know about. Did buy one of those Competition .223 rifle seater dies last week.
Hey, they're pretty neat and work pretty darn nice, especially if one has fumbly fat fingers. Seems like we have so much info as well as opinions on reloading anymore it can almost try one nuts. Sure miss those days when a die cost $6.50 though--tr

One more thing...When you change bullet weight, manufacturer or style. You must start all over for that new bullet...

Amen moose2....

moose2 wrote:

Lets see, reloading manuel. I did finally break down about 30 years ago and bought one. There sure was alot of stuff in there that I didn't know about. Did buy one of those Competition .223 rifle seater dies last week. Hey, they're pretty neat and work pretty darn nice, especially if one has fumbly fat fingers. Seems like we have so much info as well as opinions on reloading anymore it can almost try one nuts. Sure miss those days when a die cost $6.50 though--tr

Don't get a manuel......... he won't help!!!! Be like the rest of us cartridge reloaders and get a manual OK.

Sorry about the spelling. I think I used to know how to spell it right. --tr

I have the Marlin 336C

www.marlinfirearms.com.../336C.aspx


Caliber 30/30 Win. or 35 Rem.
Capacity 6-shot tubular magazine
Action Lever action; side ejection; solid top receiver; deeply blued metal surfaces; hammer block safety.
Stock American black walnut pistol grip stock with fluted comb; cut checkering; rubber rifle butt pad; tough Mar-Shield® finish; blued steel barrel band with integral swivel stud.
Barrel 20" with Micro-Groove® rifling (12 grooves).
Twist Rate 30/30 Win. - 1:10" r.h. 35 Rem. - 1:16" r.h.
Sights Adjustable semi-buckhorn folding rear, ramp front sight with brass bead and Wide-Scanâ„¢ hood. Solid top receiver tapped for scope mount; offset hammer spur (right or left hand) for scope use.
Overall Length 38.5"
Weight 7 lbs.

moose2 wrote:

Sorry about the spelling. I think I used to know how to spell it right. --tr

I'm just kidding you moose2

I also had a 336C in 30/30. Was a nice rifle? Traded it off for a 6MM. Love the 6MM but regret selling the 336C.--tr
P.S. Note this thread is "reloading probelm:--

ripper007 wrote:

I have the Marlin 336C www.marlinfirearms.com.../336C.aspx Caliber 30/30 Win. or 35 Rem. Capacity 6-shot tubular magazine Action Lever action; side ejection; solid top receiver; deeply blued metal surfaces; hammer block safety. Stock American black walnut pistol grip stock with fluted comb; cut checkering; rubber rifle butt pad; tough Mar-Shield® finish; blued steel barrel band with integral swivel stud. Barrel 20" with Micro-Groove® rifling (12 grooves). Twist Rate 30/30 Win. - 1:10" r.h. 35 Rem. - 1:16" r.h. Sights Adjustable semi-buckhorn folding rear, ramp front sight with brass bead and Wide-Scan™ hood. Solid top receiver tapped for scope mount; offset hammer spur (right or left hand) for scope use. Overall Length 38.5" Weight 7 lbs.

You my friend have just what I'm looking for in the Marlin 336c a .35 caliber. Hopefully I will have one next month.

I bought that one brand new from Cabela's in sindney nebraska.

that is what I am reloading for, and had the reloading question for.

I useto have one a long time ago when I was about 19 years old. from 80 yards with open sights, I was able to shoot coke cans one by one that was lined up.

I got rid of it when I needed money for a truck so I could have transperation , getting back and forth from work. this provided food and shelter for my wife and kids.

I actualy wanted to get a bigger gun. but for sentimental value and knowing how accurate the marlin 30-30 was, I bought again.

, I am happy with it. I already dropped a deer with it. so I know its big enogh to take down a good size game.

it might now have the best balistics for flat shooting. but it does the job.

I have been enjoying relading bullets for this. , my first loads I loaded light. but was real accurate.
wiating to get to the gun rang to test out this last set of loads .

loading is fun. but I think shooting them is funner.